rollbar
Well, Ashley is on the fence about this S&J engine. After she has thought about it and checking out the fine details of the warranty and shipp/core she just might use the 258 I have w/90k on it that is torn apart.
We will see.
tufcj
It's some work to go to a 6. Wiring changes (distributor and sensors), fuel line is on the wrong side, you need the I-6 specific passenger side motor mount from the frame rail to engine, fan shroud is different, throttle linkage, exhaust, ETC.
What might look cheaper now will probably cost more in the long run. Have you looked for a used 360 in a Wagoneer in the boneyards just to get it running? Might be cheaper in the long run.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
We will run the basic engine, no sensors etc.
Fuel line-I will have to extend.
No fan shroud-3 core. I haven't run a shroud since I was a kid using bigger radiators.
The one thing I forgot was the throttle linkage and kickdown.
Will the tranny's kickdown from the 304 work w/a 258?
I do have a 258 kickdown set up but was saving it for Peaches auto swap. I can use a Lokar set up like I did on my 999/360 set up.
If the 304 kickdown will not work, then I can use that on Jr's 304-360 swap, he is adding a 999.
P.S. Jr is selling his T-15 3spd; Ramsey PTO winch setup that was stock from the factory in '74 if you know someone.
Thanks again,
Jim
rollbar
Need a set of 304 Heads-Hers are messed up and bent valves.
Jim
rollbar
Look what we found in one of her heads.
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/hebe4y3a.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/9yme6y5e.jpg[/img]
rollbar
Ok Ashley was working on her cyl head and she found this. By the time she gets new valves (they are bent) and new seats she can get heads.
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/e4u2ege7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/agagyqem.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/any9a2um.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/e4eme7am.jpg[/img]
tufcj
[QUOTE=rollbar;133352]Look what we found in one of her heads.[/QUOTE]
Completely normal.. They used the wire to hold the casting sand in place when casting the head. You'll find one in nearly every head that doesn't have severe rust.
The valve guide, on the other hand, is shot. It might be repairable, but like you said, it might be cheaper to find a good core head and start again.
Bob
tufcj
Blown7
If it were me, fix the couple things like cam and lifters with new, buy some new Edelbrock heads and have a good little engine.
Blown7
Heads here
[url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60119/overview/[/url]
Than get a good cam to match, make 75 extra HP with bolt on's
rollbar
Will heads off a 360 work?
RV cam; edelbrock 4bbl intake; 1406 carb & headers.
Blown7
Not sure never tried, I'm sure Matt or someone else could answer that. Maybe has something to do with valve interference??
I've only played with the bigger engines. I've used the 304 stuff on the 304 stuff and my reference book (the book printed in the early 1970's AMC Performance printed by AMC in house engineers or something like that) that tells all about modding and swapping engine parts is at work.
A 360 block would be a great building block to modify, cheap, and plenty of options`.
tufcj
[QUOTE=rollbar;133360]Will heads off a 360 work?
RV cam; edelbrock 4bbl intake; 1406 carb & headers.[/QUOTE]
With the overbore on your 304, you MIGHT be able to use 360 heads. 2 things you'd have to watch for would be valve to cylinder wall clearance and valve to piston interference. Since the 360 head has bigger valves, the valve pockets in the pistons won't be in the right places and the intake valve may touch the cylinder wall when full open (the bigger bore may solve this). With a smaller lift cam, it may not be an issue. You don't really gain any performance, because the valve is shrouded by the cylinder wall.
On the one performance 304 I built, I went to 1.94 and 1.50 Chevy valves (stock is 1.78 and 1.40). I wish I still had those heads, hung on to them for a long time, then sold them for a song. If I still had them, I'd donate them to Ashley's project.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
Thanks everyone. We have some 304 heads that were donated and better than the 360 we just got today. So she is stating w/the 304 heads.
Question, are Sealed Power Bearings better than King Engine Bearings?
[url]http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=None&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=amc%20304%20rod%20bearings&page=2[/url]
We are going to pull her pistons/crank tonight so we can hot tank the block-I guess ai should see what bearings are in the engine and order the same MFG since we are not going to turn the cranks etc UNLESS we find another problem.
Thanks,
Jim
rollbar
Thanks everyone. We have some 304 heads that were donated and better than the 360 we just got today. So she is stating w/the 304 heads.
Question, are Sealed Power Bearings better than King Engine Bearings?
[url]http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=None&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=amc%20304%20rod%20bearings&page=2[/url]
We are going to pull her pistons/crank tonight so we can hot tank the block-I guess we should see what bearings are in the engine and order the same MFG since we are not going to turn the cranks etc UNLESS we find another problem.
Thanks,
Jim
tufcj
Glad you found a set of heads.
I don't think one bearing is better than the other. I've actually heard good things about King bearings, although I've never used them (they never seem to have been in stock when I needed bearings). Most of my engines have gotten Clevite bearings.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
Ok, Ashley pulled the trigger and bought the Cam kit and will buy a few more items next week.
[url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k10-214-5[/url]
[img]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/cca-k21-237-4_w_ml.jpg[/img]
rollbar
Parts are in :)
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/begegeha.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/zy3u6ypy.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/tesejepy.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/juhy7a8e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/ygumemun.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/u3are6yz.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/ysy5a4ub.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/7u7ybu4e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/ysapubuh.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/dybyju9y.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/e8usaryr.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/evypary3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/3esa4a3e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/amyqequt.jpg[/img]
rollbar
Ok now the fun begins.
Note: the machine shop said to run the Break-in oil for 500 miles.
Cam break-in for 30 min then change the filter and add one Qt of the 10w30 for another 500-1k miles ( depending on how we want to do it).
[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/14/ju7ejury.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/14/pebyve3a.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/14/tagetequ.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/14/upe6a6e8.jpg[/IMG]
rollbar
Unwrapped the engine and starting the work.
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/y5e3y4u4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/ru5e2yta.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/7aqe9aba.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/padaty8a.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/ydade3yj.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/4uhaga4u.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/e9equ7as.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/8ahara7y.jpg[/img]
rollbar
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/ty2asaze.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/pe7ajezu.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/bysa6ume.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/7evezahu.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/eda8ujam.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/5ure3y5y.jpg[/img]
