thats what the backside of my 1/8th looks like that Im cutting now, looks bad. But I bought a Pistol grip needle scaler from northern tools, lay the piece on some cardboard on the floor and hit it, the vibration knocks almost all of it off instantly, sometimes you need to float over certain areas that are close but it sure beats whapping things with a hammer.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466768_200466768
Id avoid this one, I bought it, cant remember if I got the warranty but the plate that holds the needles cracked out and the needles fall out, and I dont think they have replacements like the other brand northern sells. But this is by far the best thing next to a sand blaster as well I stripped my mill with it the paint just chips off in big pieces.
The video doesnt show a very good job of it, trying to strip primer and surface rust but its truely an awesome tool, I think the neighbors can appreciate it as well its pretty loud
Edit: looking at your lead ins, the scaler wont help much there, as sometimes the steel is almost welded but I usually get dross from the water cooling the sparks on the backside and is usually all the way around as Ive been keeping my water level as high as possible then dumping water on top of the sheet
I to have a 15cfm compressor, but the pressure switch was adjusted because when it hit 160psi it was breaking hose clamps now it comes on at 60psi, and occasionaly faults out the torch after fire. if its Cutting the compressor kicks on early and doesnt bother it, hell one time I forgot to turn it back on and it was cutting below 50psi and still cut somewhat ok. Other times I get a fault error of Consumeables stuck, but if I manually fire the torch in mach it goes away I think its a speed issue of the fire signal.