jeepsr4ever
The trick is those small areas promote to a different layer and use the pierce height the same as cut height and no pierce delay. To make a fish like that perfectly you need to know the software better or just have more practice. Layers, lead in and lead out, THC delay, ref distance, pierce height, cut height are all relative to smaller precise cuts. All which are completely capable with this system.
Mav68erick
[QUOTE=jeepsr4ever;131980]The trick is those small areas promote to a different layer and use the pierce height the same as cut height and no pierce delay. To make a fish like that perfectly you need to know the software better or just have more practice. Layers, lead in and lead out, THC delay, ref distance, pierce height, cut height are all relative to smaller precise cuts. All which are completely capable with this system.[/QUOTE]
never thought about different pierce height before on a different layer
Charlene
Okay I have 2 questions:
1. Where is a good place to go to learn more than just the basics for Sheetcam? Is the Sheetcam manual fairly in depth? Would it confuse even a longterm user?
2. How do I speed up the z axis during a cut? It currently moves at a very slow rate before & after a cut.
Thanks guys!
jeepsr4ever
1. Sheetcam.com/youtube.com ect
2. You can increase your plunge rate in sheetcam tools and go to config/home,limits and increase Z home rate from 20% to 40%
[URL]http://www.sheetcam.com/Download/SheetCam%20TNG%20Manual_A4.pdf[/URL]
Charlene
Thanks Matt, that really helped speed it up. Now, my question for today: Why might certain sections in a file not cut? I cut out a couple Signtorch files (very simple deer circles) and I had to go back to three sections of the design and re-run the program in the spot to cut the small sections that it skipped. The uncut sections can be 1/4 of an inch up to an inch. There didn't seem to be any problem like the torch going out. The program ran from start to finish with out stopping. Any ideas?
jeepsr4ever
It didnt go into that area because of your kerf width or the thickness of the beam you setup in your tools. Sometimes you have to lie to sheetcam or change your start and stop. Often cut with no lead in on the very tight designs. This is the absolute toughest part of cutting
Charlene
Well, that might be true in some situations but one of the skips was on the outside border and several others were in fairly large inside cuts. Also, I have decreased the pierce time to .2 and it still seems to pause for almost 2 seconds... Is there someplace else where I need to make a change?
Now, we talked about an xbox controller. Where should I get one and what one should I get?
jeepsr4ever
Settings page in mach 3 may have a delay set.
jeepsr4ever
Missing pierces or piercing then loosing arc? If your loosing arc its because your pause is too long and the plasma thinks you ran through your steel...no more to cut.
Charlene
Oh yeah, one more thing... When I do "run from here" and the gantry travels to that spot, the z axis cycles all the way to the top of the screw and keeps trying to go farther for several more seconds. Shouldn't the z-home switch stop it from doing this? And, why does it travel to the top in the first place? I have it zeroed out at 1.5-2 inches off the table...
Thanks!
Charlene
When misses sections, it is on wide open cut paths. It is loosing the arc for a split second or longer but not at the beginning of the cut.
jeepsr4ever
1. You need to re-zero in Mach 3 after using "run from here". For some reason MAch 3 has classically added up all the Z axis moves in the previous lines with the post processor when using "run from here" so it thinks it is either 20 some inches above or 20 some inches below. If you look at the DRO in mach for Z axis after it is ready to "run from here" there is your answer it may be 10 or so inches + in the negative direction.
2. If you are loosing arc it has nothing to do with the electronics and everything to do with your plasma cutter itself. It could be a worn consumable, air issue or electrical issue with a board inside. It may even be a loose wire from your work clamp or your torch lead.
Charlene
Thanks Matt. Zeroing out the Z took care of that problem. We will keep playing with it to try to get it to stop skipping.
Tonight we finally did the 1"x4" test cuts to tweak the settings to get a cleaner cut. That really made a difference. Now we just need to figure out why we get a little scalloping on some of the cuts but things are moving in the right direction.
Here are a couple things that I cut today:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]184[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]185[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]186[/ATTACH]
wickedinhere
Looking great.
jeepsr4ever
Your catching on fast!
Charlene
Alright, here are today's projects. I did some extra work on the raccoon. Please let me know what you think. Also, what would you charge for it? It is @ 24"x24", 12 guage, and so far I haven't put a finish on it.
I think that we have got the 12 gauge dialed in and the cut edge on the 5/8th came out great!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]187[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]188[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]189[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]190[/ATTACH]
wickedinhere
Your on track now.
Charlene
Matt, I just wanted to thank you for the XBox controller. We were very surprised when it arrived in the mail today. It will be very helpful!
BigYellowIron
Care to share your torch height control settings?
Charlene
On the 12 guage I use a .06 pierce height & cutting height with a Hypertherm 85 using fine cut consumables set around 42 amps. I hope this helps.
