JeepScrambler that is a seiously fine looking CJ-8!! And I can see why your are looking for an ideal build.
Taking into account what you plan to do with it - which sounds like mostly road work, you can build a 401 on the mild side and still have enough ass to do what you need to without the super expensive high-tech parts. Little touches like bushed pistons, the cam oil mod, and I agree with Ironman on the push rods and with AMX69 on the 7/16 studs with 1:6 rollers if you think you need them - a wee bit less friction, but like he said make sure your shop understands about angles and binding. The little things to reduce friction, add to HP and economy.
Pistons are personal :-| If your wanting to stay with 87 octane and a 8.5-9.5:1 CR, cast will probably serve you well. Look at the hundreds of thousands of miles on stock motors as evidence they work. If your pushing the envelope with routine hi-RPM passes, race fuel or Nitrus then super-whamadyne high tech is the only way. I think any of the cams mentioned would work well with a Performer - not sure about any future EFI set up, I'm still mulling that over myself. You won't find a cheap R4B anywhere (cheap is a relative term to some folks though #-o ). The major thing to keep in mind, and that was mentioned, is vacuum. If your going to tow ANYTHING you'll need the brakes to stop you and the load, and if you don't have them already put in a vacuum assist brake system (dual diaphragm 7' or 8') will do you nicely. So the cam and intake need to provide at least ( and BARE MINIMUM is) 16 in, better is 18-20 inches. The Torker intake is a misnomer in my opinion - had one on a 304 and hated it. Even tried one on a 327, 4-bolt SBC and it sucked!! Stay to the high side on the carb 650-700 CFM. It's easier to restrict air flow than it is to open.
The HD oil pump from MC gets me 60psi cold, 30-35 warm without a mid-plate on my 360 (bored, balanced, yada, yada, yada), but I'm looking to do that later as insurance against wear.
Engine work should include trueing both block and heads, line bore mains and cam. If your doing the work balance the rotating assembly best you can (or pay the shop to do it ). And if your reusing your con-rods, gett'm refurb'd! In the oil valley, clean up the flash around the oil drain holes and any casting flash that will keep oil from flowing back down. I try and chamfer the holes a little to help the flow. Not a big deal, but one of those 'little things' to get the oil back to the pump as fast as it will go. I've seen guys paint the inside of the oil valley to help as well - but I've not tried it.
Heads - THE most critical part of your build. It allows the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder and holds it all together while it explodes several thousand times per minute, then lets the gases out. Where ever you can improve flow, do it. Port match to the intake , smooth but don't polish the intake path (you still need some swirl to mix the air and fuel) and polish the exhaust to reduce carbon build up. You need some back pressure on the exhaust so you don't suck burnt gases back in when the piston starts to move downward. This is the balancing act on the guzz-out side and takes some research to get right. While it's combusting you need to have good valve seats to hold it all together. You've heard of 3 and 5 angle valve jobs to provide good valve seating and a 3 angle would suffice. And make sure all your valve springs are matched (and not binding). This will apply an even load on the cam and make your motor much happier :t: Valve diameter is also something to consider. Stock 401's have a 2.025 intake and 1.68 exhaust diameters, this should be enough, but you can always open them up if you have the $$$.
If your not going to go too extreme in running this rig off road or trying for a 10 sec pass in a straight line, you shouldn't need a crank scraper or stud girdle. A good oil pump, properly spaced pick-up tube and windage tray will get you through.
The exhaust needs to handle all the air flow leaving the engine of course, and the design is all theoretical. Long tube headers get low end, short tube headers get better high end, just as small primary tube with 1 5/8" diam to a 2 1/2 collector will do better for low-medium end grunt than a 2 1/4 to 3" collector - unless your running flat out down the strip. So you'll have a trade off of hi/low power based on road/off-road manners and the desire for where you want your torque band. What that trade of is depends on you. I would go with the 1 5/8 to the 2.5 collector with a cross over pipe (improves cylinder scavenging in a dual exhaust set up) before it gets to the muffler - after that a 3" pipe will do ya :t:
Good luck on the build and we DO expect pictures and progress reports :t: :!:
