CJ8 to M170 Build

rollbar

Well I bought some new gauges for the build and a Lokar throttle cable. I used Summit gauges because Auto Meter was just to expensive for mechanical gauges. I looked on the box and Summit gauges were made in Twain, go figure. We will see how long they last then go from there. I bought the cluster (cheaper/right color) and will use them separately.

Mechanical temp gauge

I couldn't use the radiator neck so I had to use the intake port for the mechanical gauge.

Mechanical oil gauge

Volt meter

Sorry for the blurred pics, weird day w/the light.

tufcj

I was able to add one gauge above where your temp gauge is. There wasn't enough room above the oil gauge because of the heater. There may be room with the tip outs that you're using. I added a vacuum gauge to the left of the heater controls, where a factory clock would have been.

Maybe you can see them here.

Bob
tufcj

rollbar

Thanks Bob, wasn't sure it it would fit. I did eye ball it and it still looks close. I was also thinking of putting the fuel gauge where U have the vacuum gauge if I need one. Still thinking of getting one from 4wd or ??? I will get a sender next week (AZone) but I would like to get one for a 20 gal tank (Summit didn't have one) and 4wdh has one for a 20 gal but AZone doesn't. Question: Why do you all have a vacuum gauge installed, I'm seeing this more and more? I know why they are used, but not just every day. Thanks, Jim

rollbar

Installed the Volt meter gauge above the Temp gauge and using the angle like the others it fit straight above the stock temp location. If you do not use the angle set up it will hit the factory air duck and won't fit.

Bought some dumps 2-1/4" so when I want to be loud I can 🙂

Installed steering wheel and painted seat brackets and re-installed.

Adjusted the passenger door and waiting for the drivers side door striker to come in along w/the factory knobs for the twin stick.

Painted the 1/2 hard top and installed.

Installed the seat belts but I need two seat belt extensions 12-18" due to the CJ8 set up and connecting to the roll bar.

Installed NOS side mirror and I want to powder coat the side mirrors arm black.

Installed air filter system.

I still have to do the door side panels, rock guards, touch up and paint the doors as well as clean up the inside. Still little things to do.

Also need to bleed brakes, install NOS review mirror, check fuel sending gauge in tank w/a spare I have to see if the gauge registers.

I am taking the exhaust to a guy in town to do. I bought all the stuff and returned it because he can do it for the same price and probably better.

So in the mean time I did drive it around the property here and washed it 🙂

northplainsdrifter

How do you like the Lokar Throttle cable? I'm in the middle of trying to make a better system. I didn't have good luck with the last OEM one I bought.

rollbar

Cats Meow :) Just leave length, I cut mine to fit and I might have to order another cable. Still plating w/it but it is responsive, better than OEM.

northplainsdrifter

rollbar;131137 wrote
Cats Meow 🙂

Just leave length, I cut mine to fit and I might have to order another cable. Still plating w/it but it is responsive, better than OEM.

Thanks, looking good too! I bet it was nice to finally drive it.

Did you use the 24"? How was the length?

rollbar

Yes it was good and I had a VIN inspection done today so I can get the plates, then touch up after I drive it. The Super Lift springs are tight, WOW. P.S. Scroll up and you will see the pic of the Lokar package, I got it for the AMC-360 but it should fit the 258, I had to cut off a lot.

rollbar

Installed the shift lever seal and adjusted the bands on the TF-999 transmission. Transmission looks excellent and I did have to drop the valve body. Refilled tranny pan etc and now she shifts great and no leaks. Next week, the exhaust.

tufcj

rollbar;131139 wrote
The Super Lift springs are tight, WOW.

Had Superlift springs on my CJ years ago. Ended up taking the short leaf out of the rear pack to soften them up some. Make sure you don't have the shackles and front spring eyes too tight. The shackles should have some sort of self locking nut (nylock or crimped) and only have maybe 10-15 ft/lbs of torque. Also, if you tightened the bolts with no weight on them, loosen them and retorque with the weight of the vehicle on them. They will soften and settle with some use.

Bob
tufcj

rollbar

Thanks Bob, I did tighten the shackles up, I'll check it out when I fill the tank. I have YJ shackles on and the YJ long bolts. I could back them off to 15ft lbs like you said and double nut them for safety. I'm going to try that first b-4 I take the spring pack apart. Since I am out in the dessert now I'm going to see what loads I carry on the trail, then I guess I can make better decision. But first, I have to re-gear, I have 3.73's on the shelf and the front D-30 is already cut for a OX locker. Just wondering w/the TF-999 and 3.73/33" or (32" now) tires it will be bad on fuel unless I get a 4spd. Going to try out the auto behind the 360 but I have a spare T-176 in the garage.

rollbar

Temp sending unit test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ6-ahK5t0c

NOTE: I did check the fuel sender again and it still doesn't work. Read below.

Still No juice and fuse is good.
Have power to Fuel gauge but they both don't work.
Did the ground to sender w/Key on to see if the gauge moved, it didn't.
Question:
Does some one have a GOOD picture of the dash wiring so I can check mine against it just to make sure.

BTW-I installed manual oil/temp/voltmeter gauge in the dash. But would still like to get the fuel working, if not, then I'll buy one and I guess use the power lead to the original fuel gauge.

OK, After checking everything SEEMS like I have NO juice @ the fuse. I pulled the fuse to check the block and NO JUICE on the prongs.
Question:
Does this mean when I plugged it in they may have missed?

Or ?

I do after checking (w/the key on) have power to the red wire going to the gauge. Hope it didn't fry it.

Here is an old pic of my dash wiring:

OK, Checked Peaches (1986 CJ7) Jeep and the ACC.LPS (3amp fuse) does not have juice w/a test light and key in the on position. W/key on, the red wire going to her fuel gauge is hot....... SAME AS MINE.
I noted that she has a Purple wire w/a orange stripe going to her temp gauge whereas MINE has a purple wire w/a white stripe -1984 CJ8
I'll check tomorrow and see if I have a purple wire w/a orange stripe for the temp.
What I can't figure out is why w/the Key one the ACC.LPS on both Jeeps w/the fuse removed has no power.
Also, I did pull the wire apart @ the tank and no power w/a test light @ the plug in going to the tank.

rollbar

OK, did some testing and although I do have power @ the red wire I am not getting results as per the write up. And I am way above OHMS on A to I = 50ohms. A to S/S to I = nothing. I do have good grounds on the speedo and all over the Jeep as I have added a bunch of grounds and a dash ground directly from the battery. ** I think my best bet (since I have mechanical gauges) is just to buy a fuel gauge and install it using the RED wire as my HOT and the pink going to the sender. Reason, I'm not so sure about these after market CJ gauge speedo inserts UNLESS you guys think they are decent. Please let me know what you have found using these after market CJ insert gauges. Thanks, Jim

rollbar

I just OHMed out the PINK wire from the gauge to the tank connection @ the frame and it did OHM out so what i think I'm gonna do is buy a fuel gauge (correct ohms needed in the gauge) and use the RED feed wire and the PINK to the tank. Hopefully that should work.

rollbar

Exhaust complete:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twb87HZWEpc

[video=youtube;twb87HZWEpc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twb87HZWEpc [/video]

rollbar

OK. I installed the new fuel (SW) gauge. I could not buy this in black so I will paint the chrome. I did not want to paint it until I knew it worked.

I added 3.5 gallons of fuel (tank was empty) and the gauge reads just at the top of the "E" (@ least I know @ "E" I have 3 gallons left 🙂 ).

Below are pictures of the gauge resting w/the key off, and on (w/Jeep running). I'm happy, sender works fine and 🙂 @ least "E" means "E" (well real close for a CJ).

Looking from the drivers seat, camera located @ the turn signal lever and on zoom.

Key Off:

Key On, guage coming up:

Gauge up:

Camera @ the turn signal lever and facing straight on.

Now looking from the drivers seat.

rollbar

Ok, found out exactly where the antifreeze leak is coming from, the head gasket on the passenger side. 🙁

rollbar

Took the CJ8 out for her maiden voyage today. Put about 15 miles on it and she does surely turn some heads. Of course in a small town w/the OD etc, they are probably thinking how many guns does he have in there. :) Ran well, still some tweaking and finishing up work to do, but its coming along. I would like to take this time to thank EVERYONE who helped and answered my questions during the building process. Thanks again, Jim P.S. More pics to come for the completion-stay tuned.

rollbar

Well, I got the plates yesterday.

Still not 100% complete, but getting there.

The wife said when I got the Jeep on the road she was going to get these plates for me as a gift.

rollbar

Mark & I made a spare tire extension bracket to fit mu 33x12.5 spare tire.

Stock CJ8 Bracket

Had to cut/round the stock bracket to fit the rim as well as bend in and blend in a rounded edge for the inner rim

New extension bracket mounted to the CJ8 stock bracket. Note: we counter sunk the holes for the stock bracket stud welds

Bead blasted the metal then painted w/black paint

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