Newb in need of guidance

mkzmomo

you could use a crankturning socket or use bulltear crank turning nut, this is the one i'm using right now in my rebuild

jinpdx

Thats assuming the engine is not froze up.

hoki06

I didn't find any numbers on the distributor when I looked before work this morning.

jinpdx wrote
Thats assuming the engine is not froze up.

I'm hoping its not

ironman_gq

most engine rebuilding shops will clean your block for you for a reasonable fee. they dip them or put them in a steam cabinet to blast the crud off and then some will bake them and bead blast em too. we have a shop up here that will clean your block and send it back looking like the day it came of the foundry line for about 75 bucks.

hoki06

ironman_gq wrote
most engine rebuilding shops will clean your block for you for a reasonable fee. they dip them or put them in a steam cabinet to blast the crud off and then some will bake them and bead blast em too. we have a shop up here that will clean your block and send it back looking like the day it came of the foundry line for about 75 bucks.

I guess thats another thing I need to research. Do you guys know of any good machine shops in the Northern VA area?

hoki06

Tag on the valve cover reads: 412N04

Didn't take the heads off because I've got some questions. First, can I take the heads off without the crank turning nut?

Secondly, in this next picture, what is the part that I have labeled A? Should that part A be able to rotate? And any tips to remove the bolt I've circled? I soaked it with PB for several hours with no luck. Can I take an impact to it?

And in this picture, notice the chunk of the head missing. The bolt that goes there was not on the intake and the chunk fell off after I took the manifold off. I'm guessing I'll need a new head.

mkzmomo

A is the damper is should be turning with a socket but it wont be easy to turn since everything is still connected inside the bloc ( pistons, head assembly, camshaft ), for that stock bolt use a breaker bar or mid impact gun the best would be to get a new set of heads so that everything is in good condition you dont want a leaking head when everything is done :t:

tufcj

hoki06 wrote
Tag on the valve cover reads: 412N04

4 = either 1971 or 1984. Since it has bridged rocker heads, I'd say 1984.
12 = December
N = 2 BBL 360
04 = 4th day of month

So you have a 2 BBL 360 built December 4th, 1984.

Before you trash the head, a shop may be able to weld and re-tap that hole, since there's no sealing surface around it. What concerns me is to the left on the block looks like a crack, it could be a casting mark.

The stuck bolt may be corroded into the aluminum timing cover. An impact gun and some heat from a torch may be needed.

Pull the heads and look at the cylinders. If there's open valves and you can't turn the engine, loosen both bolts on the bridge evenly, a couple of turns at a time.

Bob
tufcj

hoki06

I see what you're talking about with what looks like a crack. I'll check that out more tomorrow. Is the bridge the part that connects the two rockers? So there'd be 4 per head if its the thing I'm thinking about.

tufcj

Yep. The bridge is the part that connects the 2 rockers. They can snap if you loosen one unevenly while it has spring pressure on it. Bob tufcj

hoki06

Got the heads off without any broken bridges. 2 of the cylinders are pretty rusted up, looks like water sat in there for a while. I got the one stuck bolt out finally with the use of a little M=F*L (if you're engineerd like myself). I finally got the crank to rotate a little but not very much. Just enough to see some pistons move half an inch or so.

How do I get the damper off? It looks like that needs to come off before I can take the timing cover off. Here are some pictures:

hoki06

And all of the pictures I've been taking are here in this album:

http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w342/hoki06/AMC%20360/

mkzmomo

the harmonic balancer will come out with the use of a puller and will go back in with an installer. It's a great tool to have if you have the money for it. looks like you will need a good machine work on those cylinders keep it up ! :t:

tufcj

There's a bolt in the center of the harmonic balancer. That needs to come out. You will need a puller to get it off. You should be able to borrow/rent/buy a harmonic puller at most auto parts stores. DON'T try a regular 2 or 3 finger puller, you can easily damage the balancer. Pour some ATF in each cylinder and let it sit a couple of days. Then work it back/forth until you can turn it. With enough rust in the cylinders to stop it from turning, you're almost guaranteed to need a bore to clean it up. Bob tufcj

hoki06

Once I get the balancer off and the pistons moving, is there a specific procedure for revoming the bottom end? Or can I just go bolt by bolt and work my way down through? It looks like all I've got left to remove is timing cover and chain, cam, crank, pistons and other stuff on the bottom end.

hoki06

My local Advance Auto only has the 3 prong puller. Any idea where I can find a 4 prong one?

hoki06

Acutally I'm not sure which type it is. It looks like this

mkzmomo

you dont need a 4 bolts puller but you'll need to get a puller and installer kit if you want to put it back on

Last kit on this page is what your looking for, try looking around in your local tool shop

http://www.mytoolstore.com/wilmar/wtech06.html

maybe someone can give you some places, I'm in canada so it wont be the good one haha

hoki06

Got the balancer off along with the timing chain cover, chain, and cam. How do I get the gear off the end of the cam? I guess the next step is the crank and pistons. I've got ATF fluid sitting in the cylinders now. Should I wait until I can fully rotate the crank before trying to remove everything else?

mkzmomo

for th gear on the cam.... are you talking about the cam gear or the timing spocket ? for the gear its a small bolt in frontof the cam, if the gear is stock on the cam just use a rubber hammer ... timing gear you need to pull it as one unit. pull it top and bottom one side at a time it will get out. pistons should get out using hammer and 2' piece of wood, it on the side of the piston skirt, if its stock the ring will break its ok you need new one any way and you will need a cylinder job too

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