Newb in need of guidance

hoki06

Besides oil changes and some overheating troubleshooting, I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to engines. I'm getting a free 360, not sure the specifics on it yet, but I want to use it to learn how to build an engine. Are there any good AMC books or just general V8 rebuild books or DVDs you guys would recommend? I'd love to take a class and learn hands on with someone watching over my shoulder but regular school doesn't leave much time for extra classes. Thanks for the help. Eric

tufcj

Welcome to the world of AMCs and Bulltear. :!:
Ask anything you want, lots of helpful people here.

This is one of the better books.

http://www.hobbyobsession.com/bjsbook.html

There's also this book, but it hasn't been updated since the early 70s.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-1968-1969-1972-AMC-JEEP-V8-PERFORMANCE-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ400004906547QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item400004906547&_trkparms=72%3A727

Bob
tufcj

hoki06

Thanks Bob. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions.

Any specific engine stand you guy recommend? I'm looking at this one because I could pick it up from Sears and not worry about shipping

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00990103000P?vName=Automotive&cName=CarElectronics&sName=Other%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

tufcj

Probably overkill. An AMC V-8 weighs less than 700 LBS fully dressed. I've got a 1000 LB stand from Harbor Freight that was around $50 on sale. Just depends on what you want to spend, and how much you use it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916

Bob
tufcj

northplainsdrifter

Look on Craigslist as there always seems to be someone getting rid of a stand.

hoki06

Ok I'm picking up my free 360 on Sunday and I have a few questions. I ordered a stand from Sears, this one to be exact http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00990103000P?vName=Automotive&cName=CarElectronics&sName=Other%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

I've never used an engine hoist or stand so, first off what type of chain should I buy to use to lift the motor and how much will I need?

How do I attach the engine to the stand? I doubt the stand comes with bolts so what size bolts do I need to go buy? I need to get all this done Sunday so I can return the engine hoist I'm borrowing to the local offroad shop. Thanks for the help!

Eric

hoki06

I'm guessing the bolts will be the same size/pitch/thread as the bell housing bolts. Still can't find that info anywhere though..

tufcj

This tool is worth it's weight in gold..
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,engine%20leveler/shopping/allResults.htm;jsessionid=A45558A70F2A0A18159E3476E6340B7F

But for a 1 time use, go get a piece of 3/8" chain about 2 feet long. You should be able to get a manifold bolt thru the link. Attach it crosswise (left front/right rear) to the intake manifold bolts.

The bolts for the engine stand will be 3/8" for top holes and 7/16" for the bottom. You need 2 bolts of each size Length will depend on the stand, probably 3 1/2" to 4" long. Be sure they're at least grade 5, grade 8 is better.

Bob
tufcj

hoki06

tufcj wrote
This tool is worth it's weight in gold..
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,engine%20leveler/shopping/allResults.htm;jsessionid=A45558A70F2A0A18159E3476E6340B7F

But for a 1 time use, go get a piece of 3/8" chain about 2 feet long. You should be able to get a manifold bolt thru the link. Attach it crosswise (left front/right rear) to the intake manifold bolts.

The bolts for the engine stand will be 3/8" for top holes and 7/16" for the bottom. You need 2 bolts of each size Length will depend on the stand, probably 3 1/2" to 4" long. Be sure they're at least grade 5, grade 8 is better.

Bob
tufcj

Thanks Bob, thats a big help. Could I also just wrap the chain around the motor a couple times? I've got about 20ft of 3/8" chain at my disposal.

tufcj

I've pulled an engine with a tow strap wrapped around it. The problem is there's a good chance you'll dent the pan and valve covers. They're only tin, not meant to support any amount of weight. A couple of feet of chain and a couple of bolts and thick washers can't be more than $5 at a local hardware store. There's always a deal like this that mounts to the top of the intake. I've never trusted the weight of an engine to four 5/16" bolts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAVY-DUTY-ENGINE-LIFT-PLATE-15042_W0QQitemZ270277630835QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item270277630835&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Bob tufcj

ironman_gq

I use the empty accessory holes in the head. go from the front of one head to the back of the other head across the motor.

hoki06

Its here! Picked it up today along with a NV3550 for the YJ to replace the failing AX-15. Everything went smoothly and thanks Bob for the bolt sizes, you were spot on.

I'd like to verify exactly what year/model this thing came out of. I was told its from a Waggy but not 100% sure because its been sitting around for a while, passed from one person to another for free. I know there are numbers stamped somewhere on the block. Where are they and once I have them how do I use them to look it up? Thanks!

Eric

tufcj

Once the valve covers and intake are off, there MIGHT be the last digit or 2 digits of the year cast in the head and on the block in the lifter galley. A "7" could be 77 or 87, so there are a few other things that can tell. It won't make any difference getting parts, 360s are pretty much the same from 74-91, the earlier ones had some differences. Bob tufcj

hoki06

I'll look for those once I start tearing into it. I did find these numbers on the intake manifold right behind the carb though. They're probably just markings for the manifold itself, not the actual block.

tufcj

Yep. That's just the casting # for the manifold. The casting # for the block is on the drivers side bellhousing flange, toward the top. They used the same number for all 360 blocks for many years, so it's not much help. Bob tufcj

hoki06

So I got a little wrench happy tonight. It started with taking off a valve cover and see how it looks under there. Then I progressed to taking the stuff off the top such as the thermostat housing, distributor, carb and so on.

Then I say to myself, hey I wonder if I can get the intake manifold off.... Well it turns out I could lol

Uh oh..... I'm addicted ::twisted:

But I do have a couple questions after my little adventure tonight. First of all, what is the best way to get the rust off everything? I'm mainly worried about the outside of the block and heads because I'll be getting a new manifold and accessories. Can I do something like an acid dip?

Secondly, what is the procedure for taking the heads off. I'm guessing take the valve spring bolts out then do something with the pushrods?

I found this under the intake manifold

Looks like I'll be getting into this engine build earlier than expected lol

AMX69PHATTY

Stop, turn, and run the other way. :wink: There is no known cure and its probably allready too late. Would there happen to a be a small aluminum tag about 1 inch square attached to one end of one of the valve covers with a single screw ? If so keep this tag and the special Posi-Drive screw, and what are the numbers on the tag ? At least a 1974 or newer probably, 4 bolt balancer and bridged rocker heads. The Ford MotorCraft DuraSpark Distributor also dates it, but not sure what year range, maybe someone else does. Not sure if the DuraSpark Distributors are stamped with a date code the same as the earlier Delco Distributors were. Any numbers stamped on the Distributor housing ? Plan on using the DuraSpark Distributor ? Engine shop can tank the bare block and heads to clean'em up.

hoki06

AMX69PHATTY wrote
Would there happen to a be a small aluminum tag about 1 inch square attached to one end of one of the valve covers with a single screw ?

If so keep this tag and the special Posi-Drive screw, and what are the numbers on the tag ?

I don't think so but I'll check again tomorrow. I think I remember seeing where it should be but it wasn't there.

AMX69PHATTY wrote
At least a 1974 or newer probably, 4 bolt balancer and bridged rocker heads.
The Ford MotorCraft DuraSpark Distributor also dates it, but not sure what year range, maybe someone else does. Not sure if the DuraSpark Distributors are stamped with a date code the same as the earlier Delco Distributors were. Any numbers stamped on the Distributor housing ? Plan on using the DuraSpark Distributor ?

I can check for stampings on the distributor and housing tomorrow. I have no idea what distributor I'll use yet. Right now I'm just doing some reverse engineering by tearing it down and learning how things go together/come apart. I know I can tackle the mechanical side of things, just need to learn the rest like choosing cams, pistons, and all that other junk.

tufcj

It's probably a 1984 block. There might also be a number on the heads in the same position as the casting number, on the opposite end. To remove the heads, the rockers come off first. Remove the bridges with both valves closed, then rotate the engine to close other valves. If you remove a bridge with a valve open, the bridge can snap (from experience here). Once the rockers are off, remove the head bolts. A pry bar in one of the intake ports and a tug will pop it off. Turn the engine on the stand so the head is level. It looks very clean inside, looks like you have a great builder. :!: :t: If you have access to a pressure washer, you could go to a hardware store and get a gallon of muratic acid. Put it on with a spray bottle, let sit 5-10 minutes, then pressure wash off. It will remove all the surface rust. BE SURE TO WEAR EYE AND BODY PROTECTION. It can cause nasty burns. Bob tufcj

hoki06

What do I use to turn the motor to open and close the valves? I think I've seen people use a breaker bar or something but where do I attach it?