rockjeep
Well i'm getting a 360 and need to put a cam, lifters, and heads on it. Does anyone have an amc specific step by step guide on how to properly install the cam, lifters, heads, rockers, etc? I'm doing it myself and I'm sure it want be a problem I just want to be absolutely sure I do it properly.
Thanks,
Bobby
jeepsr4ever
You want to use a generous amount of cam lube on the camshaft lobes and smear a little on the bearing areas of the camshaft. Be very gentle when installing the camshaft so you dont botch the bearing surfaces. The lifters should have a little assembly or cam lube on the tips and OD of each lifter. Once those are in move to the heads. Make sure the heads are absolutely clean on the deck surface as well as the engine block deck on either side...let their be no old gasket to raise or cause a high spot. The gasket should be lined up on the head using the alignment pins and studs. Then gently lower the head onto the studs and let it slide down. I stress cleanliness here. It is a good idea to use a vaccum to suck out any particulate in your cylinders and use a rag soaked in motor oil and wipe down the cylinders so they are a little damp. Torque your head bolts starting in the middle and make a circular pattern that moves to the outside. You will need to get very close on the first torquing and then nail it on the second go around and then check each nut or bolt for the proper torque spec for the 3rd go around. This should ensure a good head to block seal.
For reference the head torque you should use is 120-125ft lbs for the cylinder pressure you will be running.
jeep_man_401
Use the paste for the cam lubes and bottom of the lifters.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99002%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku
and dump some of this in the oil also...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99003%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku
And make sure it fires and runs the first crank. Keep the rpm above 2500 and rev it alittle (300 to 500rpm) for 20 Min the dump the oil and put in fresh with another can of the break in lube.
My 2 cents.
rockjeep
Well I got the motor put togethter and installed. I've yet to drive it except up onto the trailer. I plan to have it ready by Friday for the Sham Rock Ride at Morris Mountain. I can't wait as the motor sounds great.
Later,
Bobby
FuzzFace2
rockjeep wroteWell I got the motor put togethter and installed. I've yet to drive it except up onto the trailer. I plan to have it ready by Friday for the Sham Rock Ride at Morris Mountain. I can't wait as the motor sounds great.
Later,
Bobby
So you broke the cam in for 20 min@2500 rpm minimim going up & down before you put it on the trailer?
I hope so or you can kiss that cam good by :smile:
Dave ----
rockjeep
fawk, i ran it for 20 minutes but at 2000 rpm. Am I screwed?
Thanks,
Bobby
tufcj
Nope, 2000-2500 RPM is good. As long as the cam got a break in run. He just didn't want you to slap it in and drive it. It wouldn't last long that way.
You should be good to go.
Bob
tufcj
rockjeep
good to hear, i thought I just fawked my motor up, whew! I need to get my EFI re-tuned though, but I can't get the guy who put the setup together to answer the phone or my emails.
Thanks for the help,
Bobby
SHARPMACHINE
Good thread, as I am hoping to install a summit k8600 soon.
I am planning on leaving the heads on, is this doable?
Working on a stock 1986 fsj 360 with about 120,000 miles on it, runs awesome as is, just want more power. I will be adding a 4-barrel intake and carb at the same time.
thanks
tufcj
It's doable without pulling the heads. However, with 120K on the clock, if the heads have never been done, the factory valve seals are probably shot, and the deposits on the valves will decrease mileage and performance some. As long as you're in the motor, it isn't that much more work to pull the heads and have them freshened up (new seals, knurl or new guides, clean valves, cut/lap seats). If you're in there for the cam, it's just a matter of pulling the exhaust manifolds and heads, everything else will already be off.
Bob
tufcj
rockjeep
well the motor did great and I love it. I just need to retune the efi setup. One thing I'd like to do is get more instant response as in take off. I'm running a tf 727 with a stock setup stall. The motor has plenty of power but it doesn't feel as if it wants to launch. Will a different torque converter setup help it take off the line?
Thanks,
Bobby
tufcj
What tire size and gears are you running? Big tires and high gears sap more torque than anything else.
My Jeep was a dog with 3.54 gears and 35" tires (mild 360). 4.27s woke it up! I went to 37" tires, and it's a dog again, 4.88s are on the shelf.
Bob
tufcj
ironman_gq
I got 4.56's and 35x15.5 swampers and it goes when you want it to. Im running a 304 with a cam and intake.
SHARPMACHINE
tufcj wroteIt's doable without pulling the heads. However, with 120K on the clock, if the heads have never been done, the factory valve seals are probably shot, and the deposits on the valves will decrease mileage and performance some. As long as you're in the motor, it isn't that much more work to pull the heads and have them freshened up (new seals, knurl or new guides, clean valves, cut/lap seats). If you're in there for the cam, it's just a matter of pulling the exhaust manifolds and heads, everything else will already be off.
Bob
tufcj
Thanks for your reply. Sorry to hi-jack the thread. My concerns with messing with the heads is will there be a problem with anything else after doing the heads? Sorta like the domino effect????
SHARPMACHINE
tufcj wroteIt's doable without pulling the heads. However, with 120K on the clock, if the heads have never been done, the factory valve seals are probably shot, and the deposits on the valves will decrease mileage and performance some. As long as you're in the motor, it isn't that much more work to pull the heads and have them freshened up (new seals, knurl or new guides, clean valves, cut/lap seats). If you're in there for the cam, it's just a matter of pulling the exhaust manifolds and heads, everything else will already be off.
Bob
tufcj
Would'nt that lead to the next thing and beyond???
donwag
My CJ7 has 35's and 4.11 gears in a Dana 44. Very good combination for me. Lot's of low end and will still do 65-70 on the highway to get to the trails.
donwag
My CJ7 has 35's and 4.11 gears in a Dana 44. Very good combination for me. Lot's of low end and will still do 65-70 on the highway to get to the trails.
rockjeep
I don't think it is my axle gears. I'm running 4.10's with 38's but I never hardly run it in high gear. I've got a dana 300 with 4:1 gears and its hard to just hold the brakes sometimes because it wants to pull so hard at just idle. What I'm talking about is it feels like a lag or loss of efficency in the tranny setup. You know with a manual you can rev the motor up a bit and dump the clutch and it will take off. I want that same type feeling but with an auto.
rockjeep
Well I love the new motor!!! Just need to get the efi tuned. I found a guy who has a chassis dyno that I can take the jeep to and have him tune it. I'll see how that goes.
Later,
Bobby
dan58
I think you need more gears. I run 5.38s, a 4:1 D300, and a 360. I have zero issues with the giddyup.
