Clicking valves?

willysjeepseller

Alright. If I run this thing till it's warm and then keep it running I can back off then tighten the stud nuts one at a time from clacking to not then 3/4 turn and i'm done? What's up with the cam base stuff? Or is that a cold procedure? I is confuseded?

82Waggy

willysjeepseller wrote
Alright. If I run this thing till it's warm and then keep it running I can back off then tighten the stud nuts one at a time from clacking to not then 3/4 turn and i'm done?

What's up with the cam base stuff? Or is that a cold procedure?

I is confuseded?

The base circle stuff was part of a cold setting procedure for adjustable rockers.

Make sure you have an adjustable valve train. The early non-bridged rocker AMC heads ( the ones with stock studs) ARE NOT adjustable - not enough thread depth on the studs unless you have changed something else. And if you are running guide plates but have not shaved down the stud bosses to make room for them, chances are your studs are too high to crank them down enough.

If you do in fact have an adjustable stud set-up, you can run until warm, back off and then tighten till the clacking stops, and then go 1/2 to 3/4 turn more.

82Waggy

1980_Cj7 wrote
AMX69PHATTY wrote
20 or 25 minutes above 2000 and less than 3500 for first run

That's what we planned to do, but...is it really necessary since this cam and lifters were broken in that very way the first first startup, and then were run about 300 mies?

Did you keep the lifters organized and reinstall matched to the cam lobes they came from?

I'd still treat it like new.

willysjeepseller

Oh. So your telling me I'm stuck with clicky clicky for now. I assume that it's stock stuff since the rebuilder did not tell me differently. So I just go to 22 lbs and if that's not it then it's something else?????

82Waggy

willysjeepseller wrote
Oh. So your telling me I'm stuck with clicky clicky for now. I assume that it's stock stuff since the rebuilder did not tell me differently.

So I just go to 22 lbs and if that's not it then it's something else?????

If your bottoming out then yes. Sorry but I just don't know what you have. You can tell by looking at the stud - If it has a shoulder on it that the pivot washer seats against, they are non-adjustable. There will barely be a thread or two protruding from the lock nut when seated.

Did you install new stock style rockers? Wear on these can cause clicky clicky too.

willysjeepseller

The rebuilder replaced the rockers I know that. I shure looks like the rocker is down hard on the cast part of the base of the stud. THere is a 75 stamped on some of the rockers. Does this mean anything??

82Waggy

Also, a clicky clicky that comes and goes is often an exhaust manifold leak - sounds similar sometimes and is often mistaken for valvetrain noise - comes and goes due to heat expansion/contraction.

82Waggy

willysjeepseller wrote
The rebuilder replaced the rockers I know that.

I shure looks like the rocker is down hard on the cast part of the base of the stud.

The rocker is touching the stud base or the pivot washer is bottomed out on the shoulder?

willysjeepseller wrote
THere is a 75 stamped on some of the rockers. Does this mean anything??

Not sure about that. I have some stock stud mounted rockers from a '69 390 that have no numbers on them.

willysjeepseller

It's pretty much always there at all rpm's. I will get a good torque wrench that does the 22 and try to re-torque. I will torque the manifolds also and see what happens. Maybe noisy lifters?

82Waggy

Here is an idea to test for valvetrain noise. If you are willing to run at idle with the valve cover off, get a wood dowel and push on the rockers while running to see if the noise goes away or changes.

AMX69PHATTY

Still not clear to me if you have Stud Mounted or Bridge Mounted Rocker Arms. If bridge mounted, then not adjustable. if stud mounted, may or may not be adjustable, check stud. By Noisey Lifters, you mean the bleed down or anti-pump-up kind ?

willysjeepseller

They are single stud rockers. Not bridged to the best of my knowledge. Thread on the stud goes down to a cast section that is bigger in diameter and has a hex shape for using a wrench for screwing it into the head.

willysjeepseller

As far as noisy lifters I am probably talking out my back side. I don't know much about lifters. Just something that someone said.

1980_Cj7

82Waggy wrote
Did you keep the lifters organized and reinstall matched to the cam lobes they came from?

I'd still treat it like new.

No. That was the plan, but the block tipped over in the back of the truck and about half of the lifters dumped out. So, we basically had no clue as to where they came from, so didn't worry about putting any of them back in their original positions.

And we did do the break in all over again...tonite! She's back on the road again!!!

« Previous Page