Clicking valves?

willysjeepseller

360 rebuilt by a shop that said they could do AMC. I'm not so sure now. Since it was rebuilt (5,000 miles ago) there is a clicking in the valve train. It also takes a second or so for pressure to register on the mechanical gage. I took it back and they essentially fed me some bull and told me to add a pre-lube system. Getting nowhere I have just run it, but I heard my old mans original 60K 304 last weekend and it's ticking me off that mine ticks and his does not. It's got an intake and Crower Baja Beast cam but that's about it. I have the older bigger valve heads as far as I know and stud type rockers. I don't know as much as I wish I did but can it be valve adjustment of something like that? Thanks Matt

rollen dean montoya

are the lifters hydraulic or solid? if solid then you have to adjust them roughly every 3 to 6 thousand miles. that is what my dad does. check the valve lash. if they are hydraulic then retorque all of the rocker arms. be sure to use the correct torque setting the tsm has. let us know how it goes. later, rollen

fuzz401

single stud rockers it sounds like they need adjusted

AMX69PHATTY

Just s'long as it's not sumthin' like dis'

willysjeepseller

What is the adjustment procedure? It's just a set torque correct? Each stud to like 22lbs.ft? I backed them off and then tightened them a while back and it seems the same.

CJim7

If they are still tight, thats not where your noise is comeing from. Now...given my limited experience with this i'll see if i can help. I've been batteling valvetrain noise for a while now with my 401, and i've ran into a lot of symptoms which i've been fixing here and there. are the lifters oiling the upper valvetrain? run the engine with the valve covers off and check-see. I had an oiling problem and the rockers werent getting oil....made for a lot of clacking and prematurally wears out the rockers/pivots/ and pushrod ends. The other thing is bad lifters. I replaced all mine and it eliminated the clacking. Last resort is a bad cam. Ha...listen to me sound like an AMC powerplant expert :razz: 8)

willysjeepseller

Should have said that they are hydraulic lifters that came with the crower cam to my knowledge. I will pull the valve covers and re-torque. I will also check for oil. After a little reading it seems others have these problems.

CJim7

willysjeepseller wrote
After a little reading it seems others have these problems.

Yeah......ME :mrgreen:
What i discovered initially, was the rockers that werent getting oil, made all the noise....which...makes sense i suppose :roll:
For whatever reason, i had lifter issues...none were collapsed, but several just quite oiling. even though they were pumped up when i removed them :-|

rollen dean montoya

definately check to see if the rockers are getting oil. when you do this find a piece of cardboard and use it to minimise the oil getting all over the place.do not rev the engine or the cleanup will take awhile,found out the hard way.if there is little or no oil then you need to check all the lifters and push rods for blockage.

AMX69PHATTY

If ya have a pre-oiling tool, the dizzy can be pulled, and the pre-oiler will work also, just turn the motor about 90 degrees by hand at least four times and all the rockers should end up getting oil.

willysjeepseller

Thanks guys. I will let you know.

willysjeepseller

Pulled the valve cover. Cranked the starter a while. Popped it over a little and finally oil out the pushrod holes of the whole driver side bank. Didn't have a torque wrench that will do 22 lbs but I will try that tomorrow and go from there. Thanks Guys.

1980_Cj7

Read my post just below yours on adjusting rockers. I think the torque is just for bridged rockers. With the single stud type, you adjust until the lash just disappears, then go another 3/4 to 1 additional turn on the nut. The other method is to adjust them with it running as detailed in the thread. When I just did ours, I found that on every rocker, 3/4 turn bottomed out the nut.

fuzz401

I would still do it hot to make sure they are were they need to be and not to tight

1980_Cj7

fuzz401 wrote
I would still do it hot to make sure they are were they need to be and not to tight

Yep, planning to do that but gotta get it running first. Going to fire it off tonite for the first second time, ha, ha. Cross your fingers and send up a prayer for us.

AMX69PHATTY

20 or 25 minutes above 2000 and less than 3500 for first run

1980_Cj7

AMX69PHATTY wrote
20 or 25 minutes above 2000 and less than 3500 for first run

That's what we planned to do, but...is it really necessary since this cam and lifters were broken in that very way the first first startup, and then were run about 300 mies?

willysjeepseller

I was going to ask the same thing. My stuff should already be broke it right?

AMX69PHATTY

Well I wonder. If allready did 20 min cam break-in then well not sure. But it's so much FUN to start a motor just put together and run it at 2500 rpm like that for 20 minutes. Make friends with all the neighbors and all :?:

82Waggy

I'd treat it like a new cam break in anyway, especially if you added new lifters. Need to grind those new bearings in and flush ' er out good too!! :lo1l: