radamx barneybrendan wroteanybody got any pics of extra head bolts fitted These had to be trimmed to clear the spark plug on the 401-1 heads. I am useing a 5/16 stud from ARP with 12 point nuts counter sunk in the heads.
radamx I try not to add up the totals but I think about 15 grand and I pulled a lot of favors. I have access to a machine shop so labor was not part of the $$$$$. I do most of my oun work porting ,line hone , balanceing,decking and assembly . I only paid for crank work and boreing of the block.
Ghinmi AMX69PHATTY wrote304/360 crank weighed 53 pounds on a bathroom scale. Dont have a 390 or 401 crank handy. My 401 crank weighs 63 pounds on my bathroom scale.
HRST390 I read alot of assumtions regarding the iron block........You have guys like RADAMX and STICKSHIFTER that are pushing the iron block to the limit(of which they have not found yet) and have had excellent reliability....yet the general opinion I am getting is the Indy block is the way to go.... Personally for me I haven't quit using the stock iron heads, block,or crank....If you want something that looks fast spend your money on all the aftermarket stuff and sell your stock stuff to me...If you want to have a real AMC engine that runs there is not a thing wrong with any of the stock parts prepared correctly..... 401 block 4.195 bore 401 crank 3.8 stroke 2.100 jnl. nitrided 090 iron heads ported torker intake modified for a dominator carb hooker headers 720hp @ 7800rpm jerico 4-speed 3000# Spirit runs 9.60's all day spinning the tires(getting close on rear suspension set-up) I would tend to listen to people that have real world experience in any situation...not the ones that THINK it should be one way or another.... I have yet to see a 401 block break because the block was at fault...I have yet to see a 401 crank break because the crank was at fault.... :t: :shock:
HRST390 I have 10k in my engine carb to pan......it might take a little less or more depending on what you have to start with....
HRST390 reliability.......This engine ran all last year...ran the total piss out of it...changed the oil and run the valves is all...over the winter had a few lash caps wearing so I changed them and the oil again.....I will replace the lifters, valve springs and bearings this coming winter 08.... And due to the fact that it is a manual transmission car if there is ever a driveline failure then the engine will come out and replace rod bolts at a minimum or the whole set of rods....this is based on real world experience from people that learned the hard way.....
barneybrendan what cfm dominator are you running and keeping the motor all amc to start with is what im planning on now.the 401 i have is a 1975 .i still have my 72 360 to sell yet (maybe).
jeepsr4ever 4.43 bore, 4.2 stroke 14.3-1 compression and cracked the block in the main and threaded holes for the studs. The two outer 4 bolts on the middle three mains survived and I havent pushed a iron block that far since then. I think I found the limit of my abilities with the iron blocks but then again all cores arent made the same. I may try a cry'ed block next time I have money laying around to waste on the biggest and the baddest. If I was flat out drag racing I might be inclined to try a 4.43 bore 3.5" stroke or maybe even a lower stroke number(For high rpm). Setting up for stroke can be tricky and sometimes you will need to press fit a plug into the bore of the rod oiling hole. Have it ground under and weld it up then have it ground down again and then drilled and then nitrided and then cry'oed. Its a extremely time consuming and expensive procedure and thats just on the crankshaft. I love the sport itself but wonder if the effort spent on getting 13-1500 reliable hp is really worth it or possible. I havent built anything over 650hp for about 7 years now.
tarior HRST390 wroteI have 10k in my engine carb to pan......it might take a little less or more depending on what you have to start with.... Is that a Barry Allen motor?
