Ok after 5 hours sleep and a hour of uploading pics here's where I'm at...........
Yes those number where without Nitrous, I couldn't find anyone to fill my tank within a couple days. I should have started sooner but I didn't think it would be so hard to do in my area.
Anyhow those numbers were with pump gas, 91 octane
I really learned alot Saturday, so much so that those numbers were quite good.
Yep it's a street engine never wanted it to be anything else.
This engine was built for the purpose of a dependable daily driver, with years of abuse and beating to come, being able to run on 87 octane if need be. ( Although not to be beatin on)
Now anyone that truly knows what it takes to do that should be impressed with those numbers, and I really know now what it takes to get down that low running crappy gas.
Conversly, if I installed aftermarket heads flowed, ported and polished, ran 100 LL or racing fuel, increased boost to 15-18 PSI, and stepped headers this engine would have made, I was told between 800 to 1000 HP without Nitrous never touching the bottom end of the block.
But those number have serious drawbacks, it would never be streetable, it would have to be trailered, it could be a nuclear bomb at anytime.
People focus too much on raw horsepower.
People see a blower and think "God it has to be 1000 HP at least at 8000 RPM"
This engine was built to eat a naturally aspirated Chebby BBC 572 for breakfast,
A Viper for lunch,
and a new Vette for supper.
(all under 100 MPH straight line)
I think it does well for a 30 year old engine revamped running pump gas..
under 5000 RPM.
Add a 400 HP shot of N2O, 100 LL and the numbers are over 1000 HP.
(although I don't think the cam, 30 yr old heads and 2" headers can get the air out fast enough)
And as the days go by I'll give my thoughs/opinions and the engine gurus about how I would do this all differently next time if I was to use the factory block.
Enough talk he's the pics.
This one of the first problems of many that plagued us from the start, I guess I shouldn't have learned to weld aluminum at the manifold installing this boss for the water outlet at the left side of the block I had a crack and inclusisions in the weld area arounf the boss, the guys showed me how to fix it with a hammer, pin punch, green locktite, red locktite, alcohol, and a hair dryer and yea it works!!!
Here is the blower removed from the manifold after a backfire and the blower back pressure plate didn't open fast enough.
It blew the base gasket clean out the back, note to self and others throw the damn gaskets in the trash and use Silicone RTV around the hole and the next time the blower has to come off use a 2X4 and a hammer.
This is one of my best friends, customer and the guy that got me started on thinking about blower engines Glenn Davis, he built a 392 Hemi in a 1964 Valient at the tender age of 17 to drag race at the old Connecticut Dragway using just Smoky Yannicks old books, talking to Mert Littlefield, and just generally being a engine nerd. BTW he ran 10.1's in the quarter at 18 yrs old. He owns a jet engine component balancing company here in Connecticut and he's the one that did all the engine balancing on this project and introduced me to Greg Hunt at Kiwi Engineering.
Notice the pretty header paint turning to charred carbon in this pic.
Here is Greg Hunt on the right, and Bob on the left these guys give meaning to engine tuning.
These guys are like greased lighting working together at the dyno console. Greg runs the dyno, monitoring the gages, moving the levers, looking out the window, screeming orders while no can hear, and Bob is programming the ECU as fast as he can point, click, type, all the while as the engine is accelerating as it can from idle to 5000 RPM, all the while as the dyno is loading the engine. BTW Bob can type 100 words a minute)
How we fixed the blower gasket problem
