Mudrat
Meh
For the extra, I liked the ball and flange and the heavier metal 1/4 vs 3/16 flange and 16 over 18 ga for the bigger tubes.
Summits I'm sure would work.
And the only bolts inculded are the head bolts - not the flanges...
tufcj
Coated headers will pay for themselves over time. When I first got my CJ, one of the first mods was headers (fenderwell). The cheapies were $99 then. I went thru a set every couple of years because the location of the collector just behind the front tire caught every bit of dirt and water thrown up. The collectors would rot thru. The coated headers were $199 but I ran them for over 10 years (probably 4-5 sets of uncoated headers). I pulled them off because of emissions laws, and sold them to a buddy. He's still running them, they're almost 20 years old now. I also had problems with cheap headers stress cracking the tubes up near the heads. You get what you pay for.
Bob
tufcj
bls33
i take it the answer to this question is no, but i just thought I'd ask, will the frame to engine mounts from the fsj im taking the engine from work for the swap in the CJ, or do i have to get ones from a CJ that had a 304
tufcj
You need the CJ specific mounts. The FSJ mounts are different. The drivers side mount is the same from the frame rail to rubber mount on the I-6 and V-8. The passenger side is V-8 specific. The engine block to rubber mount brackets are also V-8 and CJ specific.
I kept breaking the drivers side mount, so I went to www.mountainoffroad.com , and got their Bomb Proof mounts. Definitely worth the money.
Bob
tufcj
bls33
so you need 2 brackets, Passenger side Frame Mount and Rubber mount...am i correct
tufcj
You will need 3 CJ specific brackets. Both sides engine block to rubber mount. Passenger side frame to rubber mount. Drivers side frame to rubber mount you can keep. I'm not sure if the rubber mounts are the same on the 6 and 8. They run $15-20 each at a parts store, if they're oily, they'll deteriorate, so why not replace them too.
Check this thread for pics of the CJ engine side mounts.
http://www.bulltear.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5139&start=0
Brand new sets of brackets here:
http://www.jeepdoc.com/
Search on motor mounts
The Bomb Proof ones I mentioned are $200.
Bob
tufcj
bls33
I have a habit of realizing obvious things after i purchase a part 111!!! , and this time I've realized that my nerf bars are prolly gonna cause some problems with the fenderwell headers i just orderd 🙁:, does it look like I may still be able to manuever around em?
BIG Pic
Mudrat
Um.... NO! #-o Nerf and fenderwell not compatable.
But that's OK, ditch the Nerfs and put some rock sliders on there with a stand off. Then you have the step, a secure slider that won't hang up on anything (like the mall parking space bump stops :wink: ) and the header will work just fine!!!
I made my own out of 1/4" 3x5 angle iron, not as fancy with the lazer cutting and all ... but shrockworks has some cool ones that work!!! :idea:
bls33
My swap is nearing completion, basically gonna bolt it all up tomarrow and do all the wiring then i just have to run the fuel line around front, then bolt on some purple hornies then i am done, so i should finish up this week :!:
Mudrat
Good deal!!! :t:
I think I finished my wiring :-| and started welding up the exhaust this weekend, among other "Daddy Duty" chores (fixing a sink, yard work - pulling out a couple stubborn bushes with the Dodge :? , covering a hole in the YJ's 'barn') before the heavens opened up yesterday with 2" of water.
CJim7
Sounds like it's comeing along. i've had a merry-go-round of a ride with my 401 swap. almost everything needed replaced, cant believe it ran as good as it did after the rebuild, but between swapping out the distributor, replaceing the ps pump and fabbing a new bracket, makeing a newer style alternator work with my 7/16 bolt pattern, rebuilding my York compressor, extracting a few broken bolts (except for one that had to be drilled and tapped), locateing a carb, motor mounts, brackets, pulleys, waiting on parts, and looking for lost tools.....its comeing along. Now to deal with my cracked exh manifold problem and i'll be able to route fuel lines and hook up the electrical. Bright side is the Edelbrock intake looks nice on top of that pig. :?
Sorry to semi-hijack, glad your project is rolling along :t:
Mudrat
Well here's a new question ...
headers, but single exhaust (gotta have a Cat in this state) with space limited between the t-case and rear end, what's a proven method of routing the exhaust tot he DRVR side and into a single cat/muffler?
I'm thinking of a 90 after the T-case, over the top of the yoke and back into the main line? Want to be able to dropt the tranny/t-case without having to drop the exhaust - especially since it'll be welded...
Thoughts??
tufcj
It's really tough with headers. You don't want the pipe too close to the floorboard, or the heat transfer will be terrible. Take it to a shop that does street rods, they can generally be really creative, but you will pay for it.
I went with stock exhaust manifolds (smog laws), I even had to have the air tubes. The shop turned the passenger side forward (about a 135* bend), then ran it under the front of the oil pan, then turned it back and connected it into the driver side. Pipes are 2.25" until they meet, then go into 3". 3" high flow cat mounted over the skid plate, 3" welded Magnaflow muffler. The whole exhaust system is above the lower edge of the fram rail, except the very end, which dumps at the driver rear corner. Mine cost about $700 to build (including cat and muffler), but I've never caught it on anything, even in the most extreme rock crawling.
I had headers in mine previously, and I don't see any noticable loss of power (maybe even a slight gain in torque) in the RPM range I run in for crawling (idle-3500 RPM). The stock manifolds seal better, and won't ever burn thru or rust out. With the cam I have, it runs out of power over 4500 anyway. How often does it get revved that high? Very seldom.
Bob
tufcj
Mudrat
tufcj wroteI went with stock exhaust manifolds (smog laws), I even had to have the air tubes. The shop turned the passenger side forward (about a 135* bend), then ran it under the front of the oil pan, then turned it back and connected it into the driver side. Pipes are 2.25" until they meet, then go into 3". 3" high flow cat mounted over the skid plate, 3" welded Magnaflow muffler. The whole exhaust system is above the lower edge of the fram rail, except the very end, which dumps at the driver rear corner.
Bob
tufcj
I think you mentioned something out this before - interesting ... around in front of the pan???
Got pics?
Not sure I can do anything like that. The other option I was looking at was taking off the PASS header and going left w/ a 90* - between the bell and trans - then a 45* to merg in to the DRVR side just past the proportioning valve and into the cat/muffler and back. :roll:
pyagid
I will try to get some pictures this weekend, My dads CJ he was able to find a small Cat the fit up right by the transmission crossmember. His CJ has since became a "1980" Jeep so it doesnt need to go through inspection or emmisions anymore.
I will get pictures of his exhaust with the headers adn Cats this weekend though
-Paul
bls33
theres a guy who wants the chero i used for parts, i'm fine with giving it to him but is there anything i should grab off that i may need towards the 360 swap?
rollbar
?
I got a set of J-10 exhaust manifolds off a 78' 360 for my 77' 360 (different engine) I have in my CJ8 I'm trying to finish, my question is will the J-10 stock exhaust manifolds work in the CJ or will they hit the tub.
Thanks,
RollBar
tufcj
Just about all of the AMC V-8 exhaust manifolds (car, truck, SUV) are the same from 1971 until the late 80s. The only ones that were different were the Hornet, Gremlin, and such that had clearance issues. What you have should fit fine.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
As alway's, thanks Bob :t: . I wasa told different so I had to check w/the real AMCers.
RollBar
KJMac
Mudrat wroteWell here's a new question ...
headers, but single exhaust (gotta have a Cat in this state) with space limited between the t-case and rear end, what's a proven method of routing the exhaust tot he DRVR side and into a single cat/muffler?
I'm thinking of a 90 after the T-case, over the top of the yoke and back into the main line? Want to be able to dropt the tranny/t-case without having to drop the exhaust - especially since it'll be welded...
Thoughts??
You can't run dual cats? I know it is more money but I would consider the Dual cats so youo can run dual exhaust.
