Cam and lifters look right. The rocker arms WON'T work on bridged rocker heads unless you have some machine work done and use guide plates. If there's nothing wrong with the bridged rockers, use them.
The stud holes have to be drilled/tapped to 7/16, and Chevy style studs installed. The pedestals need to be milled about .250" + the thickness of the guide plate you chose (generally about .375" total). Then you'll usually need a custom length pushrod. You generally get into it for about $400 in machine work and parts. The only rockers that will work without machining are Harland-Sharp. http://www.harlandsharp.com/amc_jeep_olds.htm
Break-in oil, just replace one quart of regular oil with the break in lube (5 quarts total), or use 5 quarts and this additive for the first couple of oil changes. http://zddplus.com/
Have the crank measured and see if it's still within spec, and check that the journals are still round. They tend to oval slightly with wear. When you're that far into it, a new set of main and rod bearings isn't a huge additional investment. You can replace just 1 bearing, but chances are if a bearing is that bad, the crank will need turning.
I wouldn't worry about degreeing a cam for a daily driver. Slap it in at the "0" setting (not advanced or retarded) and run it. Every aftermarket cam I've degreed has been within 2 degrees, that won't hurt a street motor.
Bob
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