Apocalypse Fabrication
Ok, I wont worry about that fault thing then. Thanks
Next set of problems...
Yes, the voltage divider was set incorrectly. I have both the pwm module and the hypertherm set to 20:1 now.
However, when I run the voltage test calibration by pushing the button in the pwm module... I am not getting it to read 126 volts. It reads 171-2 instead on the dro. I tried to adjust the white pot in the esp2 box, but it maxed out with only giving me 166 volts minimum, so I put it back where it was originally.
We went ahead and tried to make some test cuts anyway:
The torch is now diving HARD into the plate. The tip volts are preset to 137 and we have seen spikes as high as 180. I have the ground clamp for the plasma cutter actually laying right next to the torch and the plate has been cleaned with a wire wheel (thinking this may be a ground issue). The diving is so violent that it has broken the mag mount free a couple times now. Ideas?
jeepsr4ever
You adjusted the pot? uh oh.. That may be a direct call to CandCNC on wednesday now. They set that up specifically per card and calibrated per card. You may need to send it in now if you want it calibrated. User adjustment is on the jumper side only. Stop and get on CandCNC's support site (email list)
Apocalypse Fabrication
Im already on the email list, hence the posted message I made above to the CandCNC group, and Tom instructed me via that email above to adjust the pot.
I dont understand what you mean by "jumper side only" can you clarify that? Is there another way to adjust the voltage to 126?
jeepsr4ever
I dont understand why he would want you to adjust the pot unless they *just changed their circuit boards in the PWM boxes. Or are you saying in the control box? In almost 4 years we have never seen them tell a customer that.
Also how are you trying to adjust the voltage and why? Are you trying to do this on the fly with the machine cutting? Are you using shielded tips? What consumables are you using? That can explain dive when THC kicks on. This may mean your shield cover is too long and your distance from tip to material is too far giving you higher than normal voltage and when it comes down it drags the shield.
Apocalypse Fabrication
An update for everyone...
Matt arent you a member of the CandCNC yahoo group? I could have sworn I saw you post there, if so, you should be able to see the communications that Tom and I have had on there.
The problem, we deduced with Tom's help, is that we have stray voltage being pumped into the PWM module or THC card. We found that to be true because we disconnected the power and CPC connector to the plasma cutter and the cat 5e cable going to the PWM from the THC card in the ESP2 power supply. This condition resulted in 0 volts being displayed on the Mach3 GUI. BUT... as soon as we connected the Cat 5E cable back to the PWM... we had 48 volts showing on the Mach3 voltage DRO. This number should be 0 when sitting idle.
He is going to issue an RMA for us and we are going to send the card and PWM module in for service. Hopefully, that fix will get us up and running.
jeepsr4ever
Hmm Sorry for your trouble but I can tell you once things are up and running youre good to go. Definately a subscriber and it goes to the company vault email like the ones from the sheetcam group and others. I am glad you were able to figure it out. Stray voltage most likely means a break in a pcb card or a short.
Apocalypse Fabrication
Matt:
Sorry, Ive been slammed with work, but Katie said that we received the limit switches. Thank you
Jason
Apocalypse Fabrication
Well... last night we finally got the DTHC working correctly and the cut quality was very nice. Tonight we are going to try some larger parts and thinner stock.
Apocalypse Fabrication
The machine is cutting really well. Thom from CandCNC has been a big help.
Can we input a g-code in Mach3 to be able to just do a straight line cut? (like when I want to cut a sheet off?)
jeepsr4ever
Sure it would read like G1 Y48. F30.
G1 is feed mode
Y48. is the length you want to cut (in Y axis from where you are..make sure you zero Y where you start)
F30. is feedrate 30 inches per minute (remember the period after 30 or it may default to .03 ipm) and also remember to fire your torch before pressing your enter key
These are entered at the MDI input line and are executed immediately after pressing enter.
Apocalypse Fabrication
Thanks Matt
Apocalypse Fabrication
[QUOTE=jeepsr4ever;132855]Sure it would read like G1 Y48. F30.
G1 is feed mode
Y48. is the length you want to cut (in Y axis from where you are..make sure you zero Y where you start)
F30. is feedrate 30 inches per minute (remember the period after 30 or it may default to .03 ipm) and also remember to fire your torch before pressing your enter key
These are entered at the MDI input line and are executed immediately after pressing enter.[/QUOTE]
This was definitely harder than I thought it would be. Setting the z axis to the right height was challenging; it was dragging the plate. Also... dont switch over to the machine window when cutting... it pauses the cut ><.
I think I may just make a sheetcam file for ripping sheets and just load it when needed.
Apocalypse Fabrication
In other news...
We cut our first products for sale. I think we bit off a bit more than we could chew at first, but we worked through it. First item we went to cut on 16 gauge was pretty/very detailed and the x axis found it a perfect time to stall (just like it used to when the bearings were too tight). I checked the gear set screws and they were all tight (this is a check I do every time I operate the machine now). After scrapping the first design cut; I resolved myself to finding out what was causing the x axis to stall.
I found that it would bind/stall even if I jogged the machine at 100% speed. I found that reducing the max velocity from 799.8 to 639.8 it would travel freely and not bind/stall anymore. I have no idea why it's binding/stalling, but I think I can live with the reduction in speed.
I also found, later, that cutting at 250 ipm (book specs on 16 gauge) that I get very finely jagged cuts... you can see the torch shaking as it turns direction at this speed. I think I will just use the 150 ipm cut speed charts from hypertherm, which were made for torchmate machines. Apparently, my machine cant handle the faster speeds either. Yes, I have double checked all the fasteners on the gantry for proper tightness.
I need to install the X and Y home switches so that I can start over on a cut when it invariably effs up. When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together?
I was also having a problem with the consumable stuck error. It seems when it tried to pierce next to an existing pierce that it would pick up the little bit of dross from that previous pierce and stick the torch... leading to all sorts of bad things.
jeepsr4ever
[QUOTE=Apocalypse Fabrication;132865]In other news...
We cut our first products for sale. I think we bit off a bit more than we could chew at first, but we worked through it. First item we went to cut on 16 gauge was pretty/very detailed and the x axis found it a perfect time to stall (just like it used to when the bearings were too tight). I checked the gear set screws and they were all tight (this is a check I do every time I operate the machine now). After scrapping the first design cut; I resolved myself to finding out what was causing the x axis to stall.
I found that it would bind/stall even if I jogged the machine at 100% speed. I found that reducing the max velocity from 799.8 to 639.8 it would travel freely and not bind/stall anymore. I have no idea why it's binding/stalling, but I think I can live with the reduction in speed.
I also found, later, that cutting at 250 ipm (book specs on 16 gauge) that I get very finely jagged cuts... you can see the torch shaking as it turns direction at this speed. I think I will just use the 150 ipm cut speed charts from hypertherm, which were made for torchmate machines. Apparently, my machine cant handle the faster speeds either. Yes, I have double checked all the fasteners on the gantry for proper tightness.
I need to install the X and Y home switches so that I can start over on a cut when it invariably effs up. When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together?
I was also having a problem with the consumable stuck error. It seems when it tried to pierce next to an existing pierce that it would pick up the little bit of dross from that previous pierce and stick the torch... leading to all sorts of bad things.[/QUOTE]
Binding and stalling has alot to do with the amount of force applied to keep the gear into the rack. You can drop your speed and also drop your accel rates to 35 if you need to. If you are getting jagged cuts and the torch is tipping check to see if you have preload on your Y axis truck. You can also check to see if the Mag-Lock plate has play and needs to have the two set screw brought out a little. In gantry kit form your Y axis truck may need to be adjusted out. You dont need home switches it rememebrs where it is when you have an issue. You need to learn how to use the "run from here" in Mach 3. Definately takes some playing with. If you are getting things stuck to your consumables your piercing too low. Also if your torch is dragging your tip volts are too low.
Apocalypse Fabrication
Ok, I will check the y axis truck.
I understand how Mach works with the error recovery now.... I watched the Arclight video series, which was super helpful.
When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together? This is the method used for squaring the gantry right?
jeepsr4ever
You shouldnt need a home switch. Are you trying to install one for squaring the gantry? The better method (which you only have to do once) is to measure from the ends with a tape.
Apocalypse Fabrication
I am trying to install the home switches so I can follow this procedure:
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=T-LZBHkHPQg[/url]
The only question I had about that was the thing about separating the a axis or not, since it's slaved.
I dont like using only a part zero, because what if the sheet shifts or what if I cant get the torch back EXACTLY where I started 0,0?
jeepsr4ever
That procedure doesnt allow much of anything if your sheet shifts. What the author doesnt understand is what is the fastest way to get back to exactly where I was when the torch had a problem. What your asking is something that can be done but we do not support or suggest it. If you stop in the middle of the cut and the G code has not completed its path a ref point will not help you. You will need to find the line where the path started, start from there and then turn your torch on just before it gets to that point. Using Ref is how someone would do it when they dont fully grasp the situation of having an error. Your much better off not having those switches used as a REF point. You can do it as you see fit but I will tell you that after a few times of having to use it for ..whatever, you will not use them again. This is coming from several years of cutting with Mach 3.
Apocalypse Fabrication
Hey Matt:
Where can I get some more of the nutserts for the gantry? I stripped a few and I want to add a couple spines to reduce flex during cutting.
Thanks
Jason
jeepsr4ever
Let me know what you want I will send you a few
