wickedinhere
Do the motor shafts have flat spots where the set screw screws against? I think i read where someone ground flat spots on the motor shafts and fixed the slipping pinion problem.
Mav68erick
Yes they do, after a minute the screws loosen up
jeepsr4ever
[QUOTE=Mav68erick;130944]i was only confused about the different dthc setup pdfs.
I installed the motors installe the Dragon aio got to jog the table. then I speed up the feed rate and ran my A axis wire over with the y AXIS GEAR 111!!!
LUCKILY it didnt do any damage..
jogs pretty good, definetly like you said need lock tite those set screws on the pinions gears dont hold for shit. [COLOR=darkslateblue]They do but alot of force is needed if you dont use loctite. We have maybe 150 tables out there that didnt use any loctite and they hold well.[/COLOR]
I gotta get some aluminum to mount my cable carrier right now I just ran a hook in the ceiling and dangled the wires down with some slack to test.
I have nothing with the dthc hooked up just the motors.
I notice on the CandCnc setup it says Digitial something probe I obviously dont have one, Just the enclosed box and the open circuit board to mount in my plasma I assume thats all I need [COLOR=darkslateblue]Yes this is all you need fro that plasma[/COLOR]
I can wire up the arc ok or divided volts to that without a cpc port and hand torch, just a little weird because they say different things in different setups some has the same some dont.
I even noticed creepy drilled extra holes in his Control box with wires running out of it, Unless he mounted some other cards in it or because its an older system, [COLOR=darkslateblue]Older system didnt have a small hole for the wire leads[/COLOR]
I just wanna be sure I got the 2 cards I need for the cutter - cpc port and hand. I did get a splicing connector that I prolly wont use since theres only one and do something different in splicing into my purple / orange wires.
also my xbox controller shows up in mach doesnt error but Doesnt actually jog anything. I read the instructions about some file but Where my cutters at have to internet connections so Ill worry about it later have to throw the file on a flash drive or something. [COLOR=darkslateblue]Go to config and then config plug ins and make sure Xbox controller is green check marked in installation default is off so it doesnt work until you turn it on.[/COLOR]
so I got the ThcSensor-PWN Module
I assume obbviously the DTCH II expansion in the main box [COLOR=darkslateblue]Yes in the white control box[/COLOR]
and I think I have the Rav01 voltage divider, not sure its an option. If my powermax65 has a way to get divided volts inside then I dont need it, so I guess I need to find out where to hook it up if it does
guess I got the divided arc controller after looking it up. So I guess I got what I need.
wish I got just a dam machine torch and cpc machine, that way I could use there plug and go plug = ).
but just to make sure I dont need the sensor probe right, because its the first thing that pops up on all 3 of there setups.
Tomorrow im gonna get some alm angle to let my cable carriers rest on the Y axis one I was thinking about and there was just nothing I had laying around to make it outta thats why I did the hanging of the cable method atm. But atleast I got to see it move.[/QUOTE]
Answers in purple
Mav68erick
Thx. I already turned the Xbox on in the config its still nonresponsive. And Windows recognizes it, and its calibrated. Ill worry about it later I got bigger fish to fry.
Mav68erick
got a piece of 2 x 2 1/8 alm angle tonite, cut some 5" pieces that bolt to the gantry roller brackets in both ends, then cut a 60" long piece and put it under neither rivited it with 3/16 alm rivets. this cradles the cable carrier. I tapped it and used some of the extra hardware to fasten the bracket to attach the carrier. that part was easy. the top mount I was struggaling to come up with ideas most of all because I had no 1/4 hardware, nuts mostly but I had some 16gauge I bend drilled some holes went to tsc got some bolts and mounted it off the 4 holes that are under the z axis motor. It a little springy but I was gonna weld a gusset to help support it but its not as bad as I thought. Once I get cutting, Ill cut a better suppport out with nice interlocking gusset and some speed holes :crazyeyes:.
They had 2 pieces of tha alm last week today there was one... it was 30 bucks a piece but he rang it up as scrap because he didnt see what shelf I got it off of apperently and got it for 15 bucks. I still gotta do the X axis carrier I think Ill just use a piece of steel angle thats been sitting out doors for the past 20 yrs. Im surprised no ones stolen it yet ( watch tomorrow Ill go to grab it, itill be gone:laughing9:.
Really surprised on how smooth the table still moves with the cable carrier and the semi heavy torch cable is inside it, I was worried about the bend but seems to be fine. The fact it looks bulky and big makes it look alot cooler then just an empty gantry sitting on top now, looks almost like an indsutrial unit.
Wish I had pictures but these new phones these days barely get 8-10 hrs on a full charge and I dont even use the thing at work its quite bs. If I get outta bed Ill go snap some pics before I go to work, maybe see if I can record a video so I can sneak peeks of it at work to cure my ocd over thinking about it habits.
So heres a QUESTION: Can I use my drag cutting shield, or do I need to get a mech shield and swirl ring blah blah...
I was gonna order them Keep forgetting to much shit to do. Dam motorcycle broke today, at break I go to leave for lunch and its louder then usual the exhaust flange nuts came off under 2K it was fine so I rode it home since its only 5 mins away parked it and grabbed the truck, bad thing is good luck getting any kind of wrench to put new ones on ....
So if I do Ill see if I can have them 1 day shipped to get saturday or see if our welding store actually carries the stuff, I doubt it most places dont carry anything anymore you get the same yeah you can pay for it I we will order it routine. Thats cool Ill buy it for half the price and get it before you do!
Mav68erick
Hey i got up at 5 and this is what happened,
Table jogging
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bnDOmkGpEM&feature=share[/url]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table5-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table4-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table3-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table2-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/table1-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/drainhole.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/drain2.jpg[/IMG]
jeepsr4ever
No drag tip should be used with automated movements. A standard tip only. Table looks good we have never mounted a cable carrier that way on the carraige but it works! We use the two top 1/4" bolts and a couple of bends on a custom piece to mount when using that Z axis.
Mav68erick
Got my X carrier installed and wires all fed through. Moved my control box and cleaned up wire placement, was getting ready to start working on the HC wiring but couldnt find my black jack cord. ( was between the seat and door of the truck. Called to late yesterday to find a mechanized tip. air gas had some of the PM45s but not one for a 65, I thought I could use it but its for a different torch style just lovely. So here Iam close to test cutting something out and Iam about 2 days out for getting a shield cap...so either I wait impatiently or try my other option.
I also learned because I was gonna buy the mechanized stuff, online it labels the pm65 retainitng collar and swirl rings as ohmic. those or for out of country users only. Everything is the same except the retaining cap shield w.e.
And it looks as I will never buy consumeables at my airgas store unless Im in a bind. 10 dollars for a single tip... you get 5 for 22 bucks online. and 18 bucks for an electrode, you get 5 for 33 online. I understand places have to pay for overhead but if you sold it for a little less it would sit for so dam long eh.
Mav68erick
We started to wire the plasma up today, found a nice spot for the arc divider board. cut the heat shrink off of the cluster of wires to get to the orange and purples but I had to go to the store and get some more connectors since I lost one of the red splicer doo hickys. We were gonna solder but it was a nickel wire. zip tied the extra of the jack cable up and tucked it behind the pressure switch or regualtor w/e it is.
Ok so I have one real issue to figure out. I know where the orange and purple go onto the board inside my plasma, I just need to find the arc ok wires to hook onto the board now, Ive browsed over the instructions and I cant seem to find anything. Since I dont have the dcp probe it should mean I have arc ok connections in my plasma, are these gonna be in the same group of wires coming out of the torch? or somewhere else on the board?
Mav68erick
Pics
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/panel3.jpg[/IMG]
I drilled the 3 holes then realized the jack cable woudlnt fit, so I just undid the 2 small black screws on the plastic and flipped it rather then drill new holes.
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/panel2.jpg[/IMG]
behind the water bowl.
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/panel1.jpg[/IMG]
gonna go see if I can figure out where my arc ok wires are some more. So basically ive done the following today
- Wired the Z switch to Z Home in the main box
- mounted the arc divider in the box, connected the work clamp lead and electrode wires to the board
- Just need to finsih the torch switch and arc oks.
Mav68erick
Well still dont have arc ok connected I think i found where the interface may hook up to on the board J21.
My Pwm box arc ok test works, the volt test doesnt work ( doesnt display any numbers on my mach 3 screen ) I had it hooked to the plasma first and was manually firing the torch to test out the switch and noticed no numbers even with the THC on.
^ when I tested it all I had hooked up was the cat5 cable to the big white box arc ok test worked but volt test nada.
But this didnt stop me, I was trying to set my Z depth offset for the switch with my drag tip and I kept getting 2.6 for my difference. Im thinking 2.6mm? thats .102" but nope everything was in english so I went back into the Motor axis setup files and what I had was right.. triple checked 5 mins later and I noticed the in ( ) use for newer z screw fixed it! was about .140 difference hell it was preset at .137 pretty close.
couple dry runs with out the cutter on, it always stops after it runs the first hole or inside piece ( earlyier before i got my z fixed I used a paint marker and was drawing parts on the steel ) I fired the torch up...
NOTE: If mach 3 is open and you turn your plasma on it errors think it was 00 - 51 Torch was on upon start up etc. Prolly the safety trigger in the plasma. Shut down mach 3. then turned my plasma back on and had 2 green lights started mach 3 up and all was good.
Cut pretty good has some bevel but since I cut it .060 above the material that should be expected considering the drag cutter should be touching. Bevel is even all the way around so Im prettyconfident the torch is pretty square, I have to order my mech shields tomorrow.
I had 65 amp tips and cut it out of a 1/4 laser slug fall out I had
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/firstpc.jpg[/IMG]
Mav68erick
well :f: me.. Im the biggest idiot atm. It my vast amount of ignorance I thought yeah i sealed that water tray good enough its not gonna leak 111!!!111!!!... boy was I wrong,Guess you cant stop water. I think my 45* elbow I welded on was bad because it was seepin water bad I couldnt tighten my pipe any more. and I was getting drips in about 3 spots around the tray. Looks like I get to take it off and finish welding it, the high temp sealer didnt do a good enough job I guess. Ill weld the bottom fully and then use some good 3M sealer all the way around and let it dry out in the sun and then add some more. I " DO NOT " wanna go through this again. Mind you If I didnt wait so late on a sunday night or go off half cocked and actually had a hose to my drain rather then using a bucket it would be so bad. But hey Im young, Im a idiot..
sigh
wickedinhere
YEah i fully welded mine then used seam sealer and filled it to make sure it wasnt leaking before i put in on my table. Remember take it slow dont be in a hurry all the time.
Mav68erick
finished welding the bottom sealed the bottom and sealed the top more, no way it should leak now.
If I cant get my table 100% funtioning ( not dialed in and tweaked ) by the weekend im gonna set it on the back burner. I need to work on my old harley to get it rideable so when my grandmas nephew visits I got something to ride because I told him he could ride my v rod when he comes. I got 2 weeks hopefully 3 depending when he comes. I think I can pull it off but its gonna be a chore its tore down quite a bit and I cant just bolt it back together, I was chopping stuff to make it into a cafe racer and a lot of the wiring needs redone as well.
2 much stuff not enough time in the day.
Mav68erick
water table doesnt leak now.
was messing around while a friend was over and decieded to try the mp3000thc post rather then the mp3000 arc fix And it actually runs the entire program. But my torch still doesnt fire all the time or stay on, 1st run through it will pierce every hole and then shut off. 2nd time same thing, if I re run it a 3rd time it finally cuts everything. I dont know if this is a pierce delay issue and the torch is lagging behind to fire or what. I still dont have My arc ok hooked up or Dthc working doesnt read any volts. So I turn those off in the profile and im still using my drag tip while I wait ( i just go half way for my cut height.
Also I noticed theres no instructions telling you to specify what material thickness. I had to edit it under your cut operation in order for my height to work, I tossed some 3/8 on the table and it still said 1/16 and the torch wouldnt come up off the material after I said 3/8 material and said 1/2 .500 rapid clearence and it works fine.
Still trying to figure my arc ok connections and why my pwn test doesnt show any volts. waiting on my mech, shields and what not.
Need to devise some splash shields, I may not have a leak now but for w/e reason after you stop the plasma it seems to purge air for 15-30 seconds after it shuts off Dunno if its adjustable but it blows water everywhere. Cutting I dont mind but that is assinine.
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/Mav68erick/Plasma/mav.jpg[/IMG]
you can see it all blown out at the lead in, prolly because i reran it 3 times so it pierced 3 times in the same spot and over heated it, not to mention its thin was vibrating 65amp nozzle and drag tip going at almost 400 ipm. = )
wickedinhere
Have you tried contacting jim colt from hypertherm about getting your pm65 hooked up? Hes on pirate 4x4 and plasma spider and is real helpful. Your gonna have problem until its all hooked up right.
Mav68erick
Ill just call hypertherm after work tomorrow, and then tom about my pwm box. Tried to order my shields and it wouldnt take my card online the page kept erroring now the page doesnt load at all. Dam computers.
Mav68erick
figured out my DTCH online and volts issue. Didnt hook up the DB9 cable but it does say optional on the side of the box. I thought that meant if you didnt have the other style to hook up,, ooops = P
Made my dad a Michigan wolverines cutout since he cant see why I bought this thing, He likes to do scroll saw stuff so maybe this will light his fire.
Still waiting for mech shields, and sometimes my torch still goes out after it pierces ( I notice if you test the torch on/off button you can only click it so fast the relay cant go as fast as you click ) so maybe theres a delay I can adjust somewheres.
still no arc ok didnt have time to call but I just turned it off as well as the dthc but so far for what im doin it cuts ok, even when my air pressure is down to 50 because my air compressor doesnt kick on til then because we adjusted the Pressure switch and now I dont ahve the special safety torque to adjust it back ( when we got it it would actually go to 170+ psi and blow my hose clamps off my hose that came off the compressor it self, scares the shit outta ya ) I think we adjusted it down a little to far because it shuts off at 110-115ish.
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRTk9EpXwzM[/url]
jeepsr4ever
Looking back into builds it turns out we always used the extra card in the 65-85 series for ARC OK and TIP VOLTS. You could theoretically go into mach 3 under the cut profile button turn off the "stop on arc loss" and this may allow you to cut just fine without arc ok. I cant say how well it iwll work with production but ....it looks like you already did that.
Mav68erick
I just ordered me a digital current probe to fix the problem. Im guessing since this can also give me actualy volts I can undo my wires coming off my electrode and work lead. I think Id have to look at the instructions for having the DCP connected.
Finally got to order my mech shield some 45 nozzles ( they gave me 65s and I just noticed ) and a set of fine cuts to mess with, they really screwed me by not paying my credit bill 2 weeks ago they accidently put it in my savings. But now its all taken care of and good to go.
I made a test cut of aflying pig about 5 x 7. some women at works neighbor wants a 2' long one for his pig roaster that he drives around and cooks for people to go on it. Will be my first paying job. She was supposed to take it last weekend and left it at work so tomorrow Ill find out if he likes it.
