rollbar
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2201.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2203.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2207.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2104.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2105.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2289.sized.jpg[/img]
I rebuilt the carb/fuel to carb.
Set timing and adjusted while cranking to get her to fire.
Motor fires and stops running (Vroom, then doesn't stay running). I can keep hitting the key and it will fire then in RUN mode it will stop.
Is there a way to jumper the solenoid to the coil so it will stay running to see if it is in fact the ignition switch that maybe causing this?
Any ideas are helpful.
Thanks again,
Jim
tufcj
Not sure of color codes, but there is a dual power system to the ignition. One circuit supplies a full 12V to the coil for starting (key in start position), a second circuit supplies a lower voltage when the key is in the "run" position. Looks like a problem with the wiring for the run position.
Not sure how or if you can jumper the Motorcraft control box.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
I'm using the I-6 wiring. Maybe someone has a idea as to the wire. Hum.
Thanks, Bob
Old Rugged Crosser
Jim regarding the top picture. Where does that red and white wire go. It should not be on that terminal. That post is only hot when you have the key turned to the start possition. As soon as you let the key go from the start possition it no longer supplies power to the coil. If you want to fire it, take that wire off and run it to anything hot. You motor will run. To turn the motor off at that point you will need to disconect that wire from the power source you just attatched it to. The problem is not in you key sw. Apparently you do not have a wire running from your ign. sw. to the coil. This you must have in order for it to stay running.
rollbar
Hum, not sure, I wired it 1.5 yrs ago. Maybe the black one goes there that is tye-wrapped off.
Thank Larry, will check and check grounds as well.
I will ger back to you all.
Can I make a jumper from that wire to the + side of the battery for testing?
rollbar
P.S. If that works, it would be a nice kill switch :) idea even though I messed up :(
Old Rugged Crosser
[QUOTE=rollbar;130233]Hum, not sure, I wired it 1.5 yrs ago. Maybe the black one goes there that is tye-wrapped off.
Thank Larry, will check and check grounds as well.
I will ger back to you all.
Can I make a jumper from that wire to the + side of the battery for testing?[/QUOTE]
Yes!!!!!!!!!
rollbar
Thanks, I'll try it.
Old Rugged Crosser
Jim,
I'm just wondern if that wire that is hangen in the top pic dos'nt belong where the red/w wire is. Note that at the coil is the same wire with a connector on it.
Where does the red wire that is on the coil go. Do you have a multi meter that you can take that reading of that wire while disconnected and read with the key turned on? It should read peak voltage as you would read at the batt. If you read it at lower v. when someone holds the key to the start possition it is a resistance wire that should be for running long term. It would be my guess that the missing red/w at the coil wire would be for starting and should read full voltage.
Hope this doesn't confuse you to much. When working on electrical having a multi meter is a must.
rollbar
Hum, I'll have to check it out tomorrow afternoon, studying for class tonight (Colossians ch 3-4).
I will trace the red wire and the R/White wire.
THe R/W is the resistance one, correct?
SO U might be saying the R/W on the solenoid should be on the/connected to the coil?
I can wire a house/building etc but I HATE tracing wires down, oh well, a painless wireing system would be sweet but for the $$, na.
Thanks again,
Jim
Old Rugged Crosser
Jim,
Let me tell you what you should have: You should have a wire running from the s term. on the solenoid to the key sw S term. which activates the solenoid. You should have a wire running from the solenoid Ig. term to coil which will read full V. You should have a wire running from your key sw. Ig term. to coil. This would be a resistance wire and not read full voltage maybe 2 volts lower. This wire shuts off when the key returns to run from start.
The easiest way to trace a wire is with a ohm meter.
I love the study of Colossians and Galatians. The key to whom we are "In Christ."
Tha'ts what you need to have. How it achieves this, well that is a mystery.
rollbar
Thanks Larry, will check. Yep Preeminence of Christ - Preeminent; above all; before others; superior; surpassing.
I guess I would have to look on the column to find the wire and trace it (R/W correct).
rollbar
OK, using test light only.
1. Key on: nothing on the + coil/solenoid either side.
2. Start: + coil = light; solenoid = light on both sides
rollbar
I have to look. I have the old stock coil hook up in the harness and I used a separate module hook up, don't ask. I have to go look and see what's up. I did test the stock coil "U" clip w/the key on and no light. Might have to drop back and punt.
rollbar
Jeep won't stay running.
Sorry for all the questions etc.
I also hooked up a test light to the power steering bracket and tested it and it works from there so my grounding should be ok.
1. I ran a wire to the + side of the coil from the battery and as long as I keep the key on it would try to fire but when I let the key go it would not stay running. The starter was keeping it firing/spinning over etc.
2. Without the jumper wire to the + side of the coil it would just go VROOM and die.
3. Below wiring and routing for the Jeep.
4. NOTICE-the brown wire trying in w/the red/white and crimped then going to the solenoid, NOT SURE what that's about.
5. NOTICE-I know I don't need it but I left the old harness incase I wanted to install the I-6 again. Also Notice I just cut the ends off the solenoid and added crimped on ends but left them in their position. Also notice the distributor I hooked that one up and left off the one in the harness as you see at the top. MAYBE I need to use that one ?? But I don't think it has the green wire.
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2106.sized.jpg[/img]
6. Any help would be appreciated even if I have to gut the wires and start over, but I would know where to start.
Solenoid - Note: the blue wire runs to the fire wall block plug.
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3056.sized.jpg[/img]
See the Red/White wire in the loom
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3057.sized.jpg[/img]
Solenoid Red/white wire tied into brown w/green lettering wire running to drivers side compartment[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3058.sized.jpg[/img]
Brown wire w/green lettering @ drivers side block tied into thicker red/white wire. Blue wire from solenoid into block. Notice the blue wire from the other side of the solenoid.
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3059.sized.jpg[/img]
Red thick wire from fire wall block and blue wire to module
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3060.sized.jpg[/img]
Red thick wire tied into the red/white one
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3061.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3062.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3063.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3064.sized.jpg[/img]
rollbar
OK, further investigation, no power at the red wire junction from the fire wall.
I do have power there (pic below) when I start it but NOT with the ignition key switch in the ON position.
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3059.sized.jpg[/img]
rollbar
1. I installed a new NAPA ignition switch = same problem.
2. Tried w/the Accell coil = same problem.
3. Took Accell coil out and used old coil = same problem. I know it works, I got zapped big time, don't ask how, wife was cranking it over, but i told her to.
4. I have two extra modules, hooked them up, cleaned the modules/fender for a good ground, ran a ground from the battery - to the modules = same problem.
5. Disconnected modules and tried to fire engine, would not fire. That is the only way I know how to check them at the moment unless someone knows a better way etc.
6. Wind blowing about 45+mph and the sand is very bad, had to quit for now.
7. Still have test light when cranking BUT NOT when key in in the ON position.
8. I'm thinking of stripping all the wires out of the looms and ....... I still have the wire looms from the I-6 setup and the computer harness is still there/computer plug in etc and all ends in case someone wanted to restore it back to factory.
9. At this point I think it would be best to get rid of all the extra wire (under the hood) but I don't know how to do that and not mess it up worse.
Thanks,
Jim
rollbar
OK, I ran a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the red wire in the pic below and she ran and idled. When I removed the jumper wire, she died.
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_3059.sized.jpg[/img]
I guess I'm gonna have to separate the electrical block at the fire wall and see it any connections are not making contact unless someone else has a better idea.
Thank you again,
Jim
rollbar
I was told this and it seems to be a worth while try:
[quote]In the first picture of the solenoid, disconnect both small red and blue wires turn the ignition switch to the run position test them for voltage the one with voltage connect to the coil plus, then turn the ign to the start position the other wire should have voltage only in the start position if thats the case connect that wire back on the solenoid , than the black wire that is disconnected in your picture connects to the opposite side of the solenoid that should be the ground wire , then you should be good to go.[/quote]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2201.sized.jpg [/img]
HERE are my findings:
See next post
.06 volts at coil w/key in the ON position.
W/wires still hooked up to coil = .00
rollbar
OK, I had the kids help me and just to be sure here are the readings one more time and double checked:
Wires discoed from solenoid.
[B]ON POSITION at the Solenoid[/B]:
1. Red to + on battery = 12.2v
2. Red to - on battery = 0.6v
3. Blue to + on battery = 12.8v
4. Blue to - on battery = 0.00v
[B]START POSITION at Solenoid[/B]:
1. Red to + on battery = 10.7v
2. Red to - on battery = 2.0v
3. Blue to + on battery = 0.00v
4. Blue to - on battery = 12.8v
