rollbar
Which kit do I use for this carb?
[url]http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=carburetor%20rebuild%20kit&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=0[/url]
Or, does someone have a part number from Summit?
I would like to get the 40 dollar kit, the 100 dollar is to much for me right now.
Thanks again,
Jim
rollbar
Question, I do not have a return fuel line on the Jeep.
Do I have to have one?
I can't remember if my '79 w/a 304 had one or not.
P.S. I don't see why if I run a fuel pressure regulator, hum
rollbar
Rebuilt the Holley 600cfm today, easiest carb I've ever rebuilt, easier then the 2bbl carter.
Bought the rebuild kit from NAPA, 45 bucks.
old pic
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_0751.sized.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2244.sized.jpg[/img]
tufcj
Return line isn't a requirement. It's there to help control vapor lock. The fuel moves through the lines faster when there's a return, so it heats less, and is constantly drawing cooler fuel from the tank. Factory, my Jeep had a fuel filter up by the carb, one inlet, 2 outlets, one to the carb, the other a return line to the tank.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
Thanks Bob, I figured I didn't need it, just asking since the pump was pumping fuel out the secondary venturies, but I rebuilt it today w/a friend of mine. Nothing to do 5+" of snow and more coming.
I still want to put a inline fuel pressure reg on but will try w/out it w/the 6505 pump.
Old Rugged Crosser
Jim, with that carb you need to pay special attention to the power relief valve. If the motor calf's back through the carb it can rupture it and will cause it to run rich and will run very ragged. If the kit didn't include it you might want to get one for your tool kit.
rollbar
Thanks larry, the old valve was leaking and in the kit two were supplied whereas I only needed one for the front bowl. So I guess I have a spare :)
Thanks for the tip.
Going to have to put off the intake this week, pulled something in the back that is causing the sciatic nerve to cause my right leg to hurt when I'm on it, might have to preach sitting down as did someone else I know of who did. But I'll suck it up and stand in there.
Thanks again guys,
Jim
rollbar
Please see post #3 for pics.
Question, When I install this carb do I need a specific gasket, meaning, do I need a thick one (1/4" or so) or just the thin one that came in the kit.
Also, the previous owner used some blue RTV on the base to seal it. I have never done this. Would this be a good practice?
Thanks,
Jim
tufcj
I wouldn't use blue RTV (or any RTV) where there's direct contact with fuel. You might be able to use the thin gasket, but you may have heat transfer problems between the manifold and carb. I had to use a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my Jeep because when the engine was hot, the heat transfer to the carb would boil/evaporate all the gas out of the fuel bowls, causing a hard start hot. Try the thin gasket, if there are no problems, you're golden. If there's a problem, add longer studs and a spacer.
Bob
tufcj
Goose
[QUOTE=rollbar;130032]Thanks larry, the old valve was leaking and in the kit two were supplied whereas I only needed one for the front bowl. So I guess I have a spare :)
Thanks again guys,
Jim[/QUOTE]
If you look at those two power valves i bet they are different.. on the inside rim there will be some numbers stamped on them indicating what vacuum levels the open at. for tuning and different applications. hope that helps
rollbar
I looked and there is only one, it came w/two and they had the same numbers printed on them. Mechanical secondaries.
rollbar
[img]http://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2244.sized.jpg[/img]
Fuel Rail leaking.
I replaced the gaskets on the bigger nut and put some teflon on the screws that screw into the big nut on the bowels, still a little damp.
Any suggestions?
Old Rugged Crosser
You are not very clear on what you are putting teflon on. You should not need to be putting teflon and any of the screws. What screws screw into the big nut. You need to try spelling that out again.
rollbar
Ya, I had to put tape on the nut from the fuel rail going into/screwing into the carb bowl anchor point/female attachment. I know I shouldn't need any since it is a beveled type male going into the female etc.
Where the big nut screws into the bowl, it is damp so I have to find two gaskets, damp is ok but it will drip due to more occurring.
tufcj
The nut on top of the bowl is the float adjustment. there should be a gasket on the screw, and below the nut. To adjust the float, you loosen the screw, turn the nut to adjust, and tighten the screw to hold the setting. The screw on the side is fuel level, you should adjust the float so fuel is just up to the bottom of the hole with the screw removed.
Bob
tufcj
rollbar
Nut the float adjustment.
Where the fuel rail plus into.
