ironman_gq wrotethey do sell sleeves that allow you to drill out the factory taper and drop in the sleeve to put the tie rod on top of the knuckle. I think they are designed for GM rod ends
tufcj wroteI do know the factory CJ ends were smaller than the Waggy. I had to have the pitman reamed to fit the Waggy end. A local machine shop charged me $10 to do it.
Hard to say if the tapers are the same diameter. I think you could buy a new Waggy tie rod for less than they're asking for that Chevy stuff.
Bob
tufcj
iirc, all 1/2 ton (ford,chev,dodge,amc) tie rod ends have the same taper & diameter.
Same as one-tons all being the same. These have the same taper angle, but the min-max diameters are bigger and the taper length is longer.
I don't know about 3/4 ton I believe they were either 1/2 or 1 ton depending on vehicle and options.
The CJ ends have the same taper angle as 1/2 tons but have a smaller overall taper diameter. You pitman arm can be enlarged by using the correct angle reamer.
It's been years since modifying 1/2 ton gear. I deal mostly in 1 ton stuff now. Going by memory here, so some of this may be incorrect.
Dang CRS!!! 🙁:
A tie rod is easily constructed from DOM as well. 3/8" wall will work, but I prefer 1/2" wall for off road. Just make sure your ID is enough to cut the threads. (ID = OD - 2 x Wall Thickness) 1 1/2", 1/2" wall DOM tube is the correct ID to tap for 1 ton ends.
Most machine shops have taps to cut the threads.
Roll cage builders have mandrel benders if you need to clearance the tie rod around the diff.
Some like to use heim joints in steering systems. But, for on-road use, you would have to constantly check heim condition and make sure the bolts/holes are not wearing.
I use tie rod ends on my off-road rig and would not use anything else. I hit a stump right at the steering arm and bend the TRE shank about 15* and no breakage. (1-ton end) That really impressed me!
Good luck with you upgrade!
