juggernaught
Just pulled apart my armature housing on the old 8274. At the end of the housing (near the brushes), there is a thrust washer and bushing that the armature rotates on/in. There is a lubricant that is silver in color and seems metallic. Is anyone famliar with this lubricant? What should I use for reassembly?
ironman_gq
its probably metallic from the metal shavings in it. I think the lube used was a type of special grease I think it was called aeroshell or something like that. Warn could probably tell you what to use.
juggernaught
I seriously doubt that the silver color of the lube is caused by any shavings. It is the armature and everything is extremely clean. Will report back.
juggernaught
Warn says to use Aeroshell 17 or Molylube 1. These are both high pressure greases that have molebdenum in them (hence the silver color). Moly is excellent for high pressure,slow turning ferrous to ferrous lubrication. Now I just have to find some.
ironman_gq
replaced by aeroshell 33ms found some for about $12.66 for a 14oz tube. google aeroshell 33ms and you'll find it
juggernaught
Thanks. I wonder if the 40% paste that they sell wouldn't be better for the armature bushing?
ironman_gq
are you talking about an atiseize type paste or moly paste? I would stick with what they call for or ask around at an electric motor shop and see what they use. The paste might work but I dont know if it is designed for the application
juggernaught
Update ........while Warn wasn't that informative, I found a site that has excellent info on lubricants and additives (especially moly), along with good prices. Although it doesn't say it, all pastes are a minimum of 50%. Not only does moly have excellent anti-wear characteristics, but is very water resistant and has a high temp. ratings.
Why is moly lube mandatory in cv joints, but not that common in standard u-joints (sealed and greasable)? No, it is NOT compatable with most other standard greases and cannot be mixed.
Check out:
[url]www.moly.com[/url]
ironman_gq
hows its EP rating compared to regular types of grease. Might have something to do with the fact that moly is not compatible with most standard types of grease and they didnt want people to be complaining about the problems caused when you mix them. It is probably a simplicity reason where the owners often grease their own vehicles but CV's never need attention unless they leak or are replaced.
juggernaught
As I understand it "EP" stands for Extreme Pressure. That is the point of a moly type grease. It is far superior to any shelf grease. Anyone can look up the numbers, but in avaition, industrial or any other high pressure application, a moly type grease is manditory as long as it is not a higher speed application. Since they require a 3-5% moly grease on cv type joints and (from what I have read),any moly type grease is superior to most/all other auto greases.
Many racing/4x4 teams are using moly lubricants now. Most will not exceed 30% though. As, far as mixing one shelf lubricant with another.......That is already being regularly done by many do-it-your-selfers and shops, just do to the fact that many just use what is most readily available and are not aware that some greases are not compatabile.
Due to the cost of molybdenum, companies use the bare minimum just to keep the costs down. It's like 10 carat gold vs. 18 carat gold. While it is true that a 3% moly grease is MUCH better than a non-moly grease, some offroaders are presently using 30-45% mixtures with excellent results.
I am just passing along some useful information for those of us looking for a better lubricant that is also water resistant/proof. The website I provided sells greases,pastes and additives. Evidentally the only draw back is that you cannot use a moly around limited-slip. I will be using a moly base grease/addative from now on.
