juggernaught
O.K......You would think getting Spicer upgraded joints for a d-30, 1310 series front axle would be simple. Only thing avail. is a 5-260x non-greasable or a 5-260x cap greasable joint. No cold forged or H/D alternative avail.
Anyone know of any other quality choices? I have gone round and round with my local auto store and still do not have a good alternative over basically stock. I do not want to spend $100 per joint.
If I can not find a decent u-joint I need some options for an axle upgrade that will not break the bank. Just looking to increase u-joint size and strength since I am repowering my v-8.
tufcj
CJ or YJ dana 30? The 95-up YJ shaft used a bigger joint, and can be swapped into an earlier YJ axle.
The failure I saw on my CJ dana 30 was usually the C-clip holding the cap failed, then the cap would push out, eventually contact the lower ball joint stud, then everything would break. I carefully ground the C-clip area with a die grinder and carbide burr until I could install a full cir-clip. That eliminated about 90% of my failures. I've also seen guys use a couple of spot welds at the top of the cap, but that makes rebuilding them almost impossible if the bearings fail.
I eventually built a Dana 44 front for mine, and did the same cir-clip mod. Haven't had a failure in 5+ years with the 44.
Bob
tufcj
ironman_gq
I bought the Alloy USA axles from 4wd 15yr warranty against breakage and a D44 sized joint with their joints. Ended up being about $650 but after my first break with the stock joints I think it was worth it. My first one I had HD high strength stock 260 sized joints and the cross exploded, tore an ear off the shaft and stretched the other ears out.
juggernaught
My cj is a 1978( see sig.) and although I probably should have retrofitted with full circle clips, I just reinstalled a new spicer 260x. Not very happy about it, but it is going to do until an axle upgrade.
Still need input on moderately priced options. Everthing I read says that dana-30 upgrade from a stock 260/297 (1310 series), to a 760 (1330) series. I believe even the mighty dana 44 is only a 1330 series u-joint. And although some do not realize it, some 44's are only a 1310 series.
Just a note: The person I purchased my "78 cj7 from completed the Rubicon trail in Calif. several times. He ran 35" tires with a amc 360, and 4:10 gears. I believe that this may be first time that these dana 3o front axle u-joints (spicer) have been replaced.
ironman_gq
the 44's used a 760 size joint in the shafts. 1310 and 1330 are usually driveshaft joints and are easily changeable by getting a different yoke. I think pretty much every size yoke is available for a 44 up to 1410 1 ton joint
juggernaught
As I said........SOME d-44's are even a series 1310 (as told by a drive-line specialist).
1310 & 1330 are SERIES. A 760x or a 260x etc are Models available within these SERIES.
ALL DRIVE-AXLES are a SERIES 1310,1330,1440 etc.
ALL DRIVE-SHAFTS are SERIES 1310,1330,1440 etc.
They just have different Models....153x,260x,670x,760x etc.
Easiest way to order a u-joint whos model you are unfamiliar with: Measure cap size by over all width.
Some of these applications can even confuse the so called "SPECIALISTS", let alone parts counter people.
ironman_gq
the smaller 260 sized joints were only in older D-44's I think some time in the mid 70's they all pretty much went to the larger joint
juggernaught
I believe that you are correct about that. Just letting jeep owners out there know that not all dana axles of the same model use the same size u-joint. Also, that if you are not 100% sure of your u-joint size, it is best to go by the physical measurements when choosing an option.
dan58
There is no "middle ground" from the stock Spicer joint and quality joint. If you upgrade to a 4340 shaft, go with a good joint. Good parts aren't cheap. Longfield used to cryo a Spicer joint, but that's long since gone.
Chose from Longfield, CTM, Yukon, or JustDifferentials. They will all run you a solid $150 each (or more), but they carry lifetime warranties. Pair that with some chromoly shafts, and you're good to go.
juggernaught
The upgraded u-joints available are not to difficult to choose between, depending on what you are looking to do. I have never really seen a list of axle shafts and alloys available rating there strengths compared to stock axles/housings and diff's. It would be nice to know what the weak link in your drive-train is before it "goes"
dan58
Upgraded shafts and joints make the hub the weak point, just like you'd want.
ironman_gq
4wheeler or JP magazine did a comparison a couple years ago. the alloy shafts and joints were at least 100% stronger if not more. It basically took the weakest point from the u-joint out to the easier to change lockout hub on all the axles or back to the driveshaft joint. I would rather have to change one of those than an axle shaft. I think they found the Mosers to be the strongest but i might not be remembering right
juggernaught
Thanks. I'll keep diggin. I have some time before I have to go back in there. Just in case something unforseen happens, I like to know what my options are.
Dusty
[quote=juggernaught]Thanks. I'll keep diggin. I have some time before I have to go back in there. Just in case something unforseen happens, I like to know what my options are.[/quote]
everyone here has it right, changing a broken axle or axles negates the savings I used to buy 1-2 sets of stock 260x axle shafts every year from wrecking yards $100 a set. in three years running 33" tires i went through 5 sets and i wasnt beiung hard on stuff at idle with the ARB's locked in stuff would break whent he clutch was let out. Since spending the money on my wifes rig to upgrade to alloy USA shafts for $400 off pirate board a few years ago and installing CTM's we have broke one internal 19 spline hub in 3 years and 29 trips, thats with a 360 t18 d300 4:1's and arbs f&R on 4:10s and 33's. my cj is 401 equipt with a t18 d300 4:1 has 35" stickies and beadlocks a D44 front, ctms alloys and a scout 44 rear and the worst that has happended in the last 5 years is i roated one rear shaft pulling a dead bronco up cadilac hill on the rubicon. I dont even carry my spare shafts anymore on the trail. I grease and go for a whole season 10-12 trips rubicon, fordyce and barret lake Ca without issue (not including the trips to the high lakes and Moab). i have more problems with spring bushings and u joints on the drivelines than i do with axles. spend the money and enjoy your time on the trail or chinz out and spend the money three times over plus the agrivation trying to find the cheaper route. there is little room between A & Z and i think the parts producers skipped all the letters in between developing stronger options. Real question is how many times a year do you want to change your axle shafts?
Good luck sounds like you are on the right path unfortuantely there are no real affordable options it spicer for $30 then you jump to $150 a joint. The full circle u-joint clip is a definate upgrade that has some benefits. soon as i did the full circle clip i quit breaking u-joints and axle ears as often and moved to breaking the outer stub shaft. :idea: the alloys with spicer joints and full circl clips are a way to start just watch it, you break the spicer joint and those axle ears risk being wiped out #-o so its one of those cross your finger type moments. My buddy did this on his bronco warn shafts and spicer joints 3 years on 36's with np435/d20 3.15:1 and a 302 but he doesnt wheel it much. one of these days he'll get ina bind and blow a joint and we can only hope that he doesnt take out the shafts. why he didnt buy good joints when he spent gobs of money everywhere else escapes me. but theres the most affordable route i've seen
juggernaught
Sounds like your set up very close to the way I will be when completed. I think alloy axles will be first on my to-do list after completion of my tranny-trans-engine rebuild. I do not like surprises on the trail, and I am building my rig for dependability. I also know that once I start on the axle sets, I'll be into changing seals,bearings and diff's. Right now it would be great just to have my jeep running.
