juggernaught
I am running out of ideas.... I have a t-18a tranny that I believe is a FORD ( 1 1/16 dia. 10 spline short shaft, with reverse up and over next to 3rd. ). I no longer have an id. tag on this tranny. Attached to the t-18a is a DANA 20 with the id. tag still attached.
Only markings stamped into the top of the case are B255 2.
All of this was transplanted into my 1978 cj-7 along with a 360 motor. I know that at some time the tranny and transfer were seperated because of the types of sealants used for gaskets.
I am trying to find out which of the year(s) this tranny was used. The dealers are no help (they want the vehicle info), tranny shops have not been much help either. Am I screwed without the id. tag? Can the casting numbers be traced?
I do know;
1967-1978 reverse was "over and up"
I am using a 1976-1979 style clutch disc
1972 and laterused a 6 5/8 bell housing
Since I am rebuilding both cases is there any way to ID the internal parts? Thanks in advance for any thoughts on the matter.
tufcj
Is the PTO cover on the drivers or passenger side?
Jeep cases were on the driver, Ford on the passenger. The 6.32:1 granny low was used 76-79, the 72-75 ones were 4:1. If it's a Jeep case, with reverse right/up, and 6.32 1st, it would narrow it to a 76-78. The 79 had reverse right/down, and the reverse shift fork hung from the top cover.
If you need parts, the part numbers are stamped on the gears once you disassemble it. That could also help ID the box.
Bob
tufcj
juggernaught
Looks like I do have a 1976-1978 FORD T-18a with a passenger side pto and the granny.. That is probably as close as I can get unless I match some internal parts. Atleast I got it to within 3 years. That will help. Thanks.
Does anyone think that the dana 20 transfer case attached to it is FORD specific or could it just as easily be from a JEEP or something else? Will either D-20 bolt to either T-18?
I do have a tag for the D-20, But it seems to be generic. Maybe some one can tell me if it is a JEEP or Ford tag.
Tag #300596-130 5359089
ironman_gq
If the tcase drops on the right side go ahead and run it otherwise you need an adapter kit to put a jeep case on there
juggernaught
You know, I should have mentioned that there is already a 1" thick aluminum plate between the Ford t-18a and the Dana-20. I thought I read that there is always this plate, although not always aluminum.
Does the fact that I have this 1" alum. plate mean that it is an "adapter plate" (ie. Ford to jeep), or just part of a stock assembly? There are no markings on the plate edges (not yet fully disassembled).
I was told that all Dana-20's were the same. Is this not true? Are the cases different and all the parts the same?
tufcj
If it's aluminum, it's probably a Ford adapter. All the Jeep Dana 20 adapters I've ever seen are cast iron.
The Ford Dana 20 has the front output on the drivers side, Jeep is passenger side. The Jeep Dana 20 has a 2:1 low range, the Ford is 2.4?:1. You can swap guts but you also need some Dana 18 parts.
[url]http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=277056[/url]
Bob
tufcj
juggernaught
So, since I have a Ford t-18a withan aluminum adapter(Ford?), but a dana-20 with a passenger side output(to the front axle), does this mean that the dana is a Jeep model that has been adapted to the Ford tranny?
I guess I could check the revolutions of the Dana, but I believe that it is a 2.0:1.
tufcj
Sounds like it. The Advance adapters and Novak adapter are both designed to mate to a 2WD Ford T-18, and since the adapter is aluminum, it may be aftermarket.
If that's the case, all bets are off on the year of the tranny, since Ford used it much longer than Jeep did.
Bob
tufcj
juggernaught
OK. Think I got alot better idea of what I have. I really appreciate all of the quick and knowledgeable feedback. That is exactly why I joined this Board after looking at some of the others. Now all I have to do is decide if I am going to tackle the rebuilds, or leave them to a pro. I am leaning towards the pro option.
tufcj
T-18s aren't a hard tranny to rebuild. It can be done with some basic tools and gear pullers. The trick is that the countershaft (cluster gear on the bottom) has to be dropped first, and moved into place last. I use a wooden dowel (1 1/4", I think) the exact length of the countershaft and thrust washers to hold everything in place until the shaft is installed.
Maybe 5-6 years ago, when prices were high, I used to buy the Wagoneer/Jeep truck T-18s at the local U-Pull-It for $75. I could buy the short CJ input shaft and retainer for another $150, and a small parts kit for $75. I could clean, disassemble, and reassemble one in about 4 hours, and sell them on eBay for $600+, a quick $300+ for my time.
With recent moves and job changes, I've barely had time to log in here, much less side jobs.
Bob
tufcj
juggernaught
I just know from experience that not only does it take a dozen times to get profecient, but that some one who has done this many times may catch something that I would not.
Just rebuilt my 360, and it was quite the learning curve, besides the fact that AMC info is not that common out there. If it was not for sites like this, I never would have completed the rebuild(short block).
Just trying to get all of the pieces back together.
