Are these the standard +.030 360 replacement pistons?

fifesjeep

I want to say that these are the standard +.030" replacement pistons... I know this is a shot in the dark but, do these look familar to anybody?

I haven't dropped the pan yet (tomorrow I will) to look at the under-side of the pistons...

This 360 came out of the 82 Waggy. It had great oil pressure and Compression Readings... this motor was/is clean inside so... I have decided to do a quick/cheap build on it... The cylinders still have the cross-pattern, the rockers/springs, valve tips, lifters and cam all look new...

My plans for this motor are simple... Shave the heads .034" , toss on an Edelbrock intake, comp cams RV cam kit or the 270 magnum kit, 1.6:1 Roller rockers, Holley 670, some headers and the simple ignition up-grades... I'm keeping this one real simple and cheap...

Thanks.

fuzz401

looks right to me

fifesjeep

After a little more research I found some pictures on the internet.. I appreciate the help Fuzz. EDIT: After bringing it to TDC on a few cylinders I consistently measured the cylinders to be .032"-.034" in the hole IMO that's crazy deep... Am I wrong to think this? So I have .034" (In the hole) + .045" (Headgasket) = Roughly .079"... WTH... Today I'm looking at bolting the head on without the gasket and seeing how much valve to piston clearance I have (Just to get an idea so that I can formulate a soild plan for cheap as possible performance)... I thought about pulling the pistons, chucking them up/dialing them in and turning the outer top lip down .020" and then having the block milled .045"... Which then the pistons will sit in the hole only .009" and with a .045" gasket thickness I'll have a decent .054" quench... Any thought's, ideas or concerns? Thanks.

dwloop

My experience is that the stock replacements from many companies have a lower deck height than the originals. The 360 that I just had done at the machine shop, we cut the decks .050 to get the CR up in the range I wanted... I didn't want to spend the dime for forged ($900!!) so I went with cast replacements and cut the decks. I forget what John told me was the reasoning behind it, but he acted like it was a normal occurence. HTH Dave

fifesjeep

I know the quench would be better if it was milled... I'll probabl machine the heads as-well... First I need to check piston to valve clearance and go from there... :idea:

ironman_gq

they are made that way so that the block can be milled without the pistons being above the deck or the compression coming up too much. It makes life a lot easier for the shops that do the batch rebuilds and for the average guy having his engine done

fifesjeep

ironman_gq wrote
they are made that way so that the block can be milled without the pistons being above the deck or the compression coming up too much. It makes life a lot easier for the shops that do the batch rebuilds and for the average guy having his engine done

Makes sense but, on the other end of the spectrum it also creates more work & money spent for those who want a little more performance... or something that's a little more efficient. But, better safe than sorry... :idea:

juggernaught

These pistons look identical to the "badger" piston I just removed from my 360 that was a rebuild. Look for a number starting with a "B", such as B891 inside the skirt. Hope that helps.