cj8lvr I've got a question fellers... Timing cover seal - the one that goes around the crank and presses into the timing cover.... Which way does it go? Does it require any silicone around the outside edge? One more... the rubber and cork seals that seal up the oil pan, do y'all use silicone on them at all? How about the timing cover gasket between the timing cover and the block? Got a paper filter but don't know if I should use silicone or not in addition to the gasket. Thanks.
tufcj The crank seal goes in with the lip/seal inside the motor. On the OEM covers, the seal can only be removed/installed from the inside (cover has to be off). It should press fit/self seal to the cover. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE SLINGER on the crank between the timing gear and cover, otherwise the seal will leak. If your engine is on a stand and upside down, just a dab of RTV where the cork meets the rubber end gaskets. (I prefer Permatex ultra black or ultra gray). If it's in the vehicle, stick the gasket to the block with a little (very little) Permatex trim adhesive, just to the block, dry on the pan side. NEVER coat a cork gasket with silicone. A super thin coat of RTV on the timing cover gasket won't hurt, but you can do it dry if both surfaces are smooth and clean. A dab where the cover meets the pan is needed. You'll want to install the timing cover first, the gasket usually needs a bit trimmed to be flush with the bottom of the block. Then install the pan gasket. Bob tufcj
cj8lvr I'm still a little confused about the first one - the crank seal...I took pictures last night and can post this afternoon when I get home from work. It could go either way. Engine is out of the Jeep and on a stand so I can turn it over easily. What usually requires trimming in that last statement of your? Cork gasket or the black rubber one that runs around the curve of the bottom of the timing cover? I'm guessing the rubber one? Cut the tabs on the rubber one a little "thinner" so they fit in the groove and the cork gasket on the oil pan will lay over the tabs on the rubber one? Dab of silicone there?
ironman_gq the side with the lip with the spring keeper around it always goes toward what you are trying to keep in. In this case the lip goes toward the engine. the seal must be pressed in from the inside of the cover because the cover is machined with a lip that keeps the seal in place and controls its depth.
tufcj cj8lvr wrote What usually requires trimming in that last statement of your? Usually the timing cover gasket is a little long. Once the cover is installed, cut it flush with the block so the pan gasket lies flat. Bob tufcj
cj8lvr Y'all are awesome! Spring statements help the most there. Here is a picture: http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/memberstuff/Jake/Pictures/ToddsJeepMisc/Crank_Seal.JPG So...according to the picture, that seal is backwards- just flip it over and install. Should it be pressed in from the side you can see in the picture or flip the timing cover over and push though from the inside?
cj8lvr What about the paper / thin cardboard gasket between the timing cover and the block? RTV or dry? What has worked for y'all?
ironman_gq I like to use gaskacinch or that black sticky gasket sealer permatex makes, cant remember the name but it has a very distinct faintly appealing smell 111!!! it helps to seal the cover and holds the gasket in place while you get the cover on. just a very thin layer is all you need.
ironman_gq yeah but it wont hold your gasket on as well and could actually help it slide around on the block but it will work just fine.
