First I had too much oil pressure, now zero.

C.Boyer

New head, manifold, carb, timing cover, water pump, cam, push rods, lifters, roller rocker, oil pump assembly, oil pump rebuild kit, etc. The oil pump rebuild kit didn't come with a new washer so the builder used the old one- leaked. I got a new washer from B.J.'s since none of the parts stores around here have anything. I pulled out the pressure relief spring, replaced the washer, put it back in, now I have no oil pressure. I took off the coil wire and let it crank- nothing. Pulled it again and put it back, nothing. If had the truck for 22 years and I've never been so confused. It was 10- 80? before (gauge pinned), now nothing. New plunger stuck? I put everything I had into rebuilding the top end. It's my only vehicle, and the engine builder is out of town for another week :(: I posted a similar rant on IFSJA and have received some intelligent responses but I'm losing my mind #-o. All I did was drain the oil, and replace the washer/spring/bolt. 78 Jeep Cherokee 360

Goose

It almost has to be the new plunger is stuck.. If thats the only thing you touched it has to be it.. (And this will sound patronizing,,But check anyway) that you put the plunger in the right way.. etc..

C.Boyer

I shined a flashlight in there and noticed a small, super short nipple, but hardly as long as the exploded view shows. What you are saying is dead on with the most intelligent response from IFSJA. I had a suggestion to remove the plunger but I don't have a magnet and scared to open up a bigger can of worms. The welded on front bumper w/skid plate makes it really difficult to get to. I've wasted a whole day on it and three crushed discs don't help. Worse I've cranked it up 6-7 times (no more than 8 seconds) with no oil pressure and ton of new parts! I took off the coil wire and cranked it so the motor wouldn't turn and got nothing. I'm stumped, stranded and have to work all day tomorrow. Thank God my girl is out of town but she's back on Monday. So I still have a week until the builder gets back. ME= lack of tools and knowledge. Thank you for your reply!!!!!!!!!! I didn't do the work but supplied the parts from B.J.'s :-|

kris

C.Boyer wrote
I shined a flashlight in there and noticed a small, super short nipple, but hardly as long as the exploded view shows.

Ok.
If understand this right, when you removed the spring and looked inside the bore of the pressure relief, you could see the "nipple" of the plunger ?

If so that is your problem. Its in backwards
Spring goes inside the plunger.
The nipple bottoms out in the bore and allows oil to pass into the system at low pressures.
Increased pressure pushes against the spring when pressure increases until it reaches the relief port...

If its in backwards its blocking the flow.

tufcj

If you removed the 7/8" nut that holds the spring, and you can see the nipple in that hole, then the relief valve is in backwards. The nipple should face away from the spring. Bob tufcj

C.Boyer

The plunger is exactly the same as when I was complaining I had too much oil pressure. So the spring side of the plunger is exactly flat?

kris

C.Boyer wrote
The plunger is exactly the same as when I was complaining I had too much oil pressure. So the spring side of the plunger is exactly flat?

Hmmm.

Mabye some new ones are, but the spare I have here (and the one in my engine at the moment) are hollow and the spring sits up in the plunger. Im sure this is to center the spring so it doesnt wear the softer aluminum bore of the housing.

Also, you mentioned the nipple is "super short" ?
It should be long, mine is .675" and again the plunger is hollow all the way up.

Im wondering if you have the wrong plunger. If yours is flat on the spring seat it is preloading the spring causing the excessive pressure you are seeing, and if the nipple is too short it will block flow.

If that spring is preloaded that far, and your oil pressure is that high, you run a really high risk of wiping the dizzy gears out. Be very careful until you figure this out.

You are in SoCal ?
If you are in the L.A. area I have a plunger you can have to get yourself going.

C.Boyer

Yes I'm in So Cal. I'm still confused since the plunger never came out. The photo on the B.J.s kit looks right. I don't know how it would stand up for the photo if it wasn't flat and looks like there's definitely room to have the spring fit inside. I'm going to pull it on Monday. I work from dawn to dark on weekends. Thanks for your time!!!!!!

kaelen

Before you fire the engine again I would recommend manually turning the oil pump to test and make sure you are building pressure. Pull the distributor and use either a old distributor shaft with no gear or cut the handle off a really big screwdriver. Chuck either up in a drill (1/2" works the best) and spin it clockwise. That'll drive the oil pump. You can check your oil gauge making sure it builds the right pressure without worrying about damaging other things. No oil pressure can wipe bearings in really short order. I see that you did pull the distributor wire.. Turning it over without starting it is much safer than running..

jeepsr4ever

Yes sometimes the pressure relief hole in the oil filter adaptor (especially if new) is too large. This causes the pump to cavitate and recirculate and then you get zero pressure. This si a common problem with the new oil filter adaptors that are sold with oil kits. The bores are often rough and will either hold up your pressure bypass plunger or let too much oil get by. Lets hope its something stupid simple like installing the pressure bypass plunger is backwards. :idea:

C.Boyer

kaelen wrote
Before you fire the engine again I would recommend manually turning the oil pump to test and make sure you are building pressure.

Pull the distributor and use either a old distributor shaft with no gear or cut the handle off a really big screwdriver. Chuck either up in a drill (1/2" works the best) and spin it clockwise. That'll drive the oil pump. You can check your oil gauge making sure it builds the right pressure without worrying about damaging other things.

No oil pressure can wipe bearings in really short order.

I see that you did pull the distributor wire.. Turning it over without starting it is much safer than running..

I did turn it over about six times figuring there was air in the oil cooler lines, but nervously shut it down after about 8 seconds. How short order? I'd really hate to have F'd up my brand new bearings. :shock:

C.Boyer

jeepsr4ever wrote
Yes sometimes the pressure relief hole in the oil filter adaptor (especially if new) is too large. This causes the pump to cavitate and recirculate and then you get zero pressure. This si a common problem with the new oil filter adaptors that are sold with oil kits. The bores are often rough and will either hold up your pressure bypass plunger or let too much oil get by. Lets hope its something stupid simple like installing the pressure bypass plunger is backwards. :idea:

All I did was replace the washer/ spring and bolt. The plunger did not come out with it. I had almost excessive oil pressure before I replaced the washer/spring/bolt. It was the only leak and making a mess. I just hope starting it 6-7 times for about 8 seconds didn't screw anything up. I thought that since I let it drain overnight, there was just air in the system. I cranked it several times with the coil wire off just to see if it would build up pressure, nope.... 🙁: :smile:

kaelen

C.Boyer wrote
I did turn it over about six times figuring there was air in the oil cooler lines, but nervously shut it down after about 8 seconds. How short order? I'd really hate to have F'd up my brand new bearings. :shock:

If you had previously run the engine and it had oil pressure I'd bet there was still a oil film on the bearings and crank. You're probably fine. Shoot it can take almost that long to build oil pressure sometimes after changing oil or starting it on a REALLY (below 0) cold morning.

Personally I would't run it anymore until I was sure it would build pressure.

C.Boyer

No doubt! I'm pulling the spring again tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the plunger out. Do you think a magnet will work? I can't pull the pump. My rental contract prohibits working on cars, A-holes!:roll: