360 oil problem prep...

cj8lvr

Alrighty, after doing some reading, I feel it may be best if I just post this question to you guys and if you know of a good thread that relates to this - send me that way as I couldn't find it specifically in a search. 360 going into a Jeep Scrambler. Block and heads sitting on a stand in the garage right now built by Grooms in Nashville. I have all of the acessories off the core to re-use if need be. My main concern is the timing cover and oil pump. 1) Should I even bother with re-using the timing cover and pump? 2) What should I examine on each to determine if it's re-usable? 3) Should, could I rebuild the pump / replace it? 4) Any other mods that could be done to the engine itself as far as oil passages and oil pumping goes? Thanks! :t:

tufcj

Welcome to Bulltear! :!:

cj8lvr wrote
1) Should I even bother with re-using the timing cover and pump?
2) What should I examine on each to determine if it's re-usable?
3) Should, could I rebuild the pump / replace it?
4) Any other mods that could be done to the engine itself as far as oil passages and oil pumping goes?

I'm sure other will chime in, but here are my opinions.

1) The factory cover is probably the best bet. You know it's worked before with no problems.

2) Remove the oil filter adapter, look for any deep scoring on any of the surfaces (top, sides, and cover). If everything is still in spec, no reason you can't re-use it.

3) Bulltear HRC gears are a good replacement. It's not a bad idea to replace the relief spring as I have seen them weaken with age/heat.

4) Either the Bulltear cam bearings with the smaller oil hole, or pushrods with smaller holes to reduce oil to the top end and increase to the rods/mains (not both). Replace the filter adapter with a newer one that doesn't have the bypass (that's the little valve right under the filter stud).

Bob
tufcj

Mudrat

Going along with Bob, inspect the cover and the oil pump plate, make sure it's not scored. If it's OK, then stock will be good enough. If it is scored - time to replace. Make sure you know what your getting, CROWN is CRAP - just as a heads up :sa: Thoroughly CLEAN everything and really consider a replacement bypass spring. One of the quickest and easiest fixes out there - watch for the pressure though when you take it apart - took me 20 minutes to find mine as it exited the housing under 'great pressure'. :shock:

cj8lvr

Thanks for the responses guys. I was finally able to take apart the timing cover / oil pump housing tonight. Nothing disturbing - just two questions I have now: 1) The surface that the two gears contact on the component that unbolts off of the timing cover (the same piece that the oil filter threads onto) looked a little bit worn but how do I know how much wear is too much wear here? Is there a way to measure that? 2) The bypass y'all are talking about...where is it again? I found the spring that's behind the 7/8 nut/cap. Is it at the bottom of that shaft that the spring comes out of? Are y'all suggesting a new piece that would eliminate that bypass all together by replacing the component that bolts onto the timing cover itself? :-|

tufcj

The part you're looking at is the oil filter adapter. You can lap it flat with some fine emery paper on a pane of glass, you can replace it with one available here at Bulltear , or you can install a mid-plate. Look about mid-page for pictures of both. ( http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_35&sort=2a&page=2 )

The thing behind the 7/8 nut is a pressure relief, you'll want to replace the spring, but leave everything intact there. The filter bypass is held in place by the same pipe that you screw the filter onto. I think any engine newer than 88 already has it blocked off, as well as the replacement filter adapters. It allows unfiltered oil back into the engine when it opens.

Bob
tufcj

cj8lvr

So it sounds like a new bypass spring, gears, and perhaps a new midplate and I should be good to go. One other thing...remote oil filter setup. The engine that is getting replaced by this 360 was a 258. It had a remote oil filter setup on it and the component that threaded in place of the oil filter seems to match up pretty well with this oil filter adapter. What would be the advantages of using this, just ease of oil filter changes because of a more accessible location? Would it help dissapate heat a little bit?

tufcj

I use a dual remote filter on my CJ. Mostly just for ease and cleanliness during changes. If you choose to keep the remote filter, you could go with the oil filter relocation kit offered here at Bulltear. It eliminates the oil filter adapter, and the filter adapter that the hoses thread into. The hoses thread directly into a new billet adapter. That's what I run on my CJ. Fix everything at once and add some of MC's bling. Bob tufcj

cj8lvr

Where did you mount the remote filter(s) - on the fender, firewall? May be a stupid question but what does MC stand for?

tufcj

I mounted my filters to the bottom of the battery tray, using an L shaped bracket so they stand upright. MC (jeepsr4ever) is the owner of Bulltear. Bob tufcj

ironman_gq

MC is his initials :t: Great guy to deal with. definately can get you whatever you might need for your motor :t: