Which Intake gaskets aluminum manifolds?

401 Pacer

I figured that discussing religion or politics will probably cause less of a stir than this..... What's the consensus when it comes to intake gasket material for aluminum intakes? If you look at the Edelbrock site they recommend 2 different gaskets! Both the Fel-Pro bathtub, and their own composite material. Just got an answer from them to this same question and the tech admitted that there's an internal conflict going on there! He suggested the Fel-Pro steel. What say you guys? Thanks

jeepsr4ever

When you have a EGR you will need a metal gasket to block the oil. I use a hydbrid metal and composite gasket. I cut the metal down both sides and only leave the area for the exhaust crossover to make sure the metal gasket stays in place. I then use some RTV and set the composite gaskets in place and bolt the intake down. This give the best seal and also reduces heat and oil consuption throught the carb.

76-cj7

Thats a perty nifty idea you gots MC.......never thought of tryin that.........i gots a warped intake that dont like to seal the bestest, anyone have ne ideas on how best to fix other that a shit ton of perma-tex? haha

dwg86

I used composite gaskets on my edelbrock air gap, but changed to the metal bathtub gasket because I was sucking oil through the pcv in the back of the intake. And yes the baffle was installed on the bottom of the intake. On my 401 I just built, I used the metal gasket but had to cut the center out because of the internal oil line. I could't use the composite gaskets because the heads and block were shaved. Same problem again sucking oil through the pvc, so I machined an aluminum plug and plugged the pvc hole in the intake. I installed the pcv valve in the valve cover using a baffled pcv grommet by MR. Gasket. I like this setup the best.

zero cool

Last time I tried to use paper gaskets, I couldn't get all the bolt holes on the intake to line up. I swapped them out for the metal valley pan gasket and it went right together. Others have gotten the paper gaskets to work. YMMV.

401 Pacer

I think I'll just slather some of this on there and fire some roofing nails thru the bastard

1980_Cj7

I used the Fel Pro tin valley pan gasket. Put Permatex Right Stuff around the bolt holes and exhaust ports, and Hylomar around the intake ports, on both sides. Used the Right Stuff on the front and rear edges instead of the rubber gaskets. When I tried to remove the intake after the engine self destructed after only 300 miles, I swear I could have picked up the entire 5,000 pound Jeep by the intake...with no bolts in it. It was really on there! The second rebuild I screwed up and cut the notch for the front end of the lifter valley oil line a little wider than it had to be, but no problems. I thought about getting a new gasket and redoing it, but those tinny things are expen$ive, so I didn't!

AMX69PHATTY

Valley Pan Intake gaskets are re-usable aren't they ???

401 Pacer

I personally wouldn't reuse one....once installed, the raised ridges have been compressed rendering them essentially flat...in other words, no more smush factor. Some may feel comfortable with goobing them up with RTV etc, but I don't like to take the chance of leaks.

jeepsr4ever

401 Pacer wrote
I personally wouldn't reuse one....once installed, the raised ridges have been compressed rendering them essentially flat...in other words, no more smush factor.

Some may feel comfortable with goobing them up with RTV etc, but I don't like to take the chance of leaks.

Couldnt agree more...and thats why I am still mad at my good buddy Larry. He keeps using them and they keep sealing. :?:
I personally dont think its a good idea though :idea:

1980_Cj7

I agree on not reusing. I would also strongly advise DRY fitting it AND the intake to make sure it fits before applying any sealants. On our first rebuild, we gunked the pan gasket up with two different sealants on both sides, and put it in place. When we went to sit the intake manifold on, we discovered the valley oil line was keeping it from seating, because we hadn't notched the valley pan. Well, by then the sealants were all setting up. I tried to clean the sealants off so I could reapply and reuse the pan, but after about a half hour of gettting nowhere fast, $30 for a new one looked pretty good.

401 Pacer

jeepsr4ever wrote
Couldnt agree more...and thats why I am still mad at my good buddy Larry. He keeps using them and they keep sealing. :?:
I personally dont think its a good idea though :idea:

Yeah, what is it with the dumb luck some people have? I remember this one butcher 'mekanick' who I worked with who did EVERYTHING WRONG....but he'd always say "Eetz ok, I do this many years no problim"

I'd tell him he's been doing it wrong for many years, and that I wanted to take him with me to Vegas to see if any of his luck would rub off. Sheesh!