401 Going Together

82Waggy

Checking Piston To Valve Clearance

I had gobs of clearance; .290Int, .245 Exh

Looks like I'll need longer pushrods

She's starting to look like something now.

1980_Cj7

Looking good! But, your bottom alternator bracket, the one with the long adjusting slot, should be behind the bracket with the window in it. It also goes on the backside of the alternator then too. Any other combination won't line up.

82Waggy

Thanks for the help. I've been eyeing that stuff for a while. Where does the short straight bracket go that has slight bends at each end? Can't seem to find the bolt spacer that the Alternator hangs on at the moment either - and I have to go to a 7/16" bolt.

shawn

Wow, very nice. And, that peice that you are looking at with the bend at each end, will eventually usea shory bolt to attatch it to the head, to the empty hole to the left as you look at it.

82Waggy

shawn wrote
Wow, very nice. And, that peice that you are looking at with the bend at each end, will eventually usea shory bolt to attatch it to the head, to the empty hole to the left as you look at it.

But what does it then hook to? Had pics when I tore down the 360 but cant find them now 🙁:

I've got a York AC mount going in there too.

Just finished painting and installing the heads...

shawn

Oh, if you have the factory york mount, you won't need that peice.

1980_Cj7

Fuzz had some pics on the post "Alternator Mount Pics Needed" on page 2 of this forum, but now they are red x's. He moved some folders around he said, but maybe he'll repost them. Let me try to describe it though.

The highest hole in the "window bracket" bolts thru a lock washer, thru the York mount, and into the head.

The bolt furthest right (closest to the window) in the "window bracket" goes thru a lock washer, thru the bracket, thru a spacer, thru the water pump, thru the timing cover, and into the block.

The hole furthest to the left in the "window bracket" gets either a 7/16-14 x 6 1/2" long bolt or a 3/8-16 x 6 1/2" long bolt, depending on what your head takes. Be careful, a 3/8 screws right into the 7/16 hole, but just won't tighten. Also, make sure the 7/16 fits thru all the brackets and alternator. We had to drill ours out. They made 2 versions of the alternator mount, a 3/8, and a 7/16. The bolt goes thru a lock washer, thru the "window bracket", thru the alternator, thru a short brace the other end of which bolts to the head (or water pump, or block, don't remember) thru a 3 1/2" long spacer, thru a 6 1/4" long brace, then finally into the head.
The other end of the 6 1/4" long brace bolts to a boss on the backside of the alternator.

Probably the biggest trick is tightening the engine end of the short brace immediately behind the alternator on the bolt the alternator swings on. You can't get at it with the "window bracket" in place. What we did was run the 7/16" bolt thru this short brace, the spacer, and the long brace, and into the head. That positioned that end of the short brace. At that point we tightened the bolt in the engine end (with the "window bracket" off). Then, you can carefully remove the long 7/16" bolt, and that short brace will keep the spacer and long brace pinched in place while you put the alternator and "window bracket" on. A couple less things to have to try to hold.

This alternator mount is a Rube Goldberg, and a real pain to figure out, especially since there were several different setups, but, when it's all together, it's real secure.

I'd REALLY recommend putting the alternator on the engine BEFORE you drop it in the vehicle. It's a lot easier to get at everything.

PS-we didn't have the long spacer either, so I just cut a piece of 1/2" pipe to the right length and used that.

Whew, after all that I find a drawing. What do they say about a picture?

82Waggy

Excellent!

I know I have that long bolt, spacer, and short bracket in a bag around here someplace.

Here's current state:

Looking pretty beasty.

I finished painting everything this weekend, and checked pushrod length (need 8" pushrods). Will have to mill the manifold a bit to get it to drop down far enough.

Should finish next week and drop it in the chassis next weekend. Then I'm waiting on the body man - wait till you guys see what color I finally picked :razz:

jeepsr4ever

Nice looking motor!!!!

1980_Cj7

Color? The same as the engine? I was just thinking, I don't think I've ever seen anybody paint a Jeep the AMC engine color, which is actually a pretty cool color. Your engine actually looks like it's powder coated. What distributor is that? Those valve covers just don't look right with that engine though. They spoil the whole thing. Send them to me and I'll send you a good looking set of genuine AMC ones in exchange. You might have to throw in a couple bucks in the bargain though.

jeep_man_401

I like the EFI. Do you have the cam card? I am always thinking about that myself. But the pulling rules don't allow it. And I heard they don't work with a cam that has alot of overlap, don't know if thats true or not. I could however use it in the AMX if I ever get started on that. I wish I could drive one or hear one first hand...

82Waggy

1980_Cj7 wrote
Color? The same as the engine? I was just thinking, I don't think I've ever seen anybody paint a Jeep the AMC engine color, which is actually a pretty cool color. Your engine actually looks like it's powder coated.

What distributor is that?

Those valve covers just don't look right with that engine though. They spoil the whole thing. Send them to me and I'll send you a good looking set of genuine AMC ones in exchange. You might have to throw in a couple bucks in the bargain though.

Nope, but the color is in the same family. I used the Seymore engine paint and clear coat.

The dizzy is a Mallory magnetic pick up unit that came with the EFI kit.

Just can't make up my mind about them valve covers either, NOT!. :lo1l:

82Waggy

jeep_man_401 wrote
I like the EFI. Do you have the cam card? I am always thinking about that myself. But the pulling rules don't allow it. And I heard they don't work with a cam that has alot of overlap, don't know if thats true or not.

I could however use it in the AMX if I ever get started on that. I wish I could drive one or hear one first hand...

According to the documention the EFI needs a 112LSA or a min 10"hg of vac at idle. Back pumping of the manifold due to high overlap tends to mess with the EFI. Edelbrock burned a chip to work with my cam.

Here is my cam specs:

Camshaft Engle 5254-H
Intake Rocker Ratio 1.6
Exhaust Rocker Ratio 1.6
ILCL (Crank Degrees) 106
ELCL 118
LSA 112
Int. Duration @ .006 254
Exh. Duration @ .006 260
Int. Duration @ .050 209
Exh. Duration @ .050 214
Intake Lobe Lift 305
Exhaust Lobe Lift 313
Intake Valve Lift 488
Exhaust Valve Lift 501
Tappet Lift .006" .050"
Intake Open, ATDC -21 2
Intake Close, ABDC 53 31
Exhaust Open, BBDC 68 45
Exhaust Close, BTDC -12 11
Overlap 33 -13
Hydraulic Intensity 45
Recommended RPM's 1000 - 4800