How Do You Best Remove RollMaster Timing Gear from Crank?

1980_Cj7

Come on guys, I know somebody must have run into this same problem already. I posed the same question in another post, but when I didn't get any feedback, I thought maybe it was not getting noticed. The crank gear is really tight, and with the chain on it, there's no way to hook a puller to it without contacting the chain. Don't want to damage the chain. I think I finally got the cam timing figured out, but now I have to get the gears off to change it.

Goose

Well the best way is to remove the bolts from the cam sprocket and take the chain and cam gear off.. then odds are the crank sprocket will slide right off if not you can then use a puller..

tufcj

I've had no problem using a small 2 jaw puller on the chain to remove the lower gear. The force required to remove the gear hasn't damaged the chain. Goose, you must be a Chevy guy. :shock: The snout on the AMC cam is too long to slide the cam gear forward without moving the crank gear. Bob tufcj

jeep_man_401

Well the best way is to remove the bolts from the cam sprocket and take the chain and cam gear off.. then odds are the crank sprocket will slide right off if not you can then use a puller..

111!!! #-o

1980_Cj7

tufcj wrote
I've had no problem using a small 2 jaw puller on the chain to remove the lower gear. The force required to remove the gear hasn't damaged the chain.

Goose, you must be a Chevy guy. :shock: The snout on the AMC cam is too long to slide the cam gear forward without moving the crank gear.

Bob
tufcj

Yes, with the tight double chain, you have to install and remove the chain and both gears all at the same time. And the RollMaster crank gear is REALLY tight. Other timing gears I've used do slip right on and off, but not the RollMaster.

Thanks for the replies guys. Just wanted to make sure before I damage anything. The way my luck usually goes....

AMX69PHATTY

Two long heavy screwdrivers or small prybars between face of block and back of gear and gently pry and walk off the sprocket ? :-|

1980_Cj7

Well, mission accomplished. Used a puller and got the crank gear off. Retarded the cam 2 degrees. Those wacky RollMaster instructions had me scratching my head for a while, but I finally put the crank key in the -2 keyway, then lined the dot on the cam gear up with the crank gear tooth marked -2 on the diagram in the instructions. Wasn't at all sure what I was going to end up with, but when I put it back together and degreed it again, it matched the cam specs almost perfectly!!! Both centerlines were dead on, and both valves were opening 1 degree earlier and closing 1 degree later than the specs called for. Thanks for all your help.

Blown7

1980_Cj7 wrote
Well, mission accomplished. Used a puller and got the crank gear off. Retarded the cam 2 degrees.

Those wacky RollMaster instructions had me scratching my head for a while, but I finally put the crank key in the -2 keyway, then lined the dot on the cam gear up with the crank gear tooth marked -2 on the diagram in the instructions.

Wasn't at all sure what I was going to end up with, but when I put it back together and degreed it again, it matched the cam specs almost perfectly!!! Both centerlines were dead on, and both valves were opening 1 degree earlier and closing 1 degree later than the specs called for.

Thanks for all your help.

So for clarification you had to retard the cam 2 degrees to install it straight up?

Jeff

1980_Cj7

Blown7 wrote
1980_Cj7 wrote
Well, mission accomplished. Used a puller and got the crank gear off. Retarded the cam 2 degrees.

Those wacky RollMaster instructions had me scratching my head for a while, but I finally put the crank key in the -2 keyway, then lined the dot on the cam gear up with the crank gear tooth marked -2 on the diagram in the instructions.

Wasn't at all sure what I was going to end up with, but when I put it back together and degreed it again, it matched the cam specs almost perfectly!!! Both centerlines were dead on, and both valves were opening 1 degree earlier and closing 1 degree later than the specs called for.

Thanks for all your help.

So for clarification you had to retard the cam 2 degrees to install it straight up?

Jeff

Jeff, yes, exactly.

Goose

ok you busted me... I am a Chevy guy..about 25 years worth.. Ive built a few AMCs but in my head when I think about things I still see chevy pictures.. (Guess that could be why I thought Huh?? when I saw the question.. :oops: ) To the olus side I have been clean and chevy free for 5 years now..4 jeeps 2 dodges and no Shove roll ehhs! :!:

jeepsr4ever

I have had this problem in the past. What I have done was use a propane torch and get the gear warm (Just too hot to touch) then the gear slides right off and you didnt heat it up enough to distort or anneal the gear.

1980_Cj7

jeepsr4ever wrote
I have had this problem in the past. What I have done was use a propane torch and get the gear warm (Just too hot to touch) then the gear slides right off and you didnt heat it up enough to distort or anneal the gear.

I thought about doing that. When I first hooked the puller up, it didn't seem like it was going to move. I was debating what to try next, but I put the puller back on and tried again. All of the sudden there was a cracking sound and the gear broke loose. It came off pretty easily from that point. It is a TIGHT fit. I was hoping and praying that I repositioned the gears right so I wouldn't have to pull it a second time. Luckily they were right on the first try.

Thanks MC for the quick delivery on the crank turning nut by the way. It was invaluable in degeeing the cam. It also came in very handy for tapping that tight RollMaster timing gear back on the crank.

tufcj

Goose wrote
ok you busted me... I am a Chevy guy..about 25 years worth..
Ive built a few AMCs but in my head when I think about things I still see chevy pictures..

To the olus side I have been clean and chevy free for 5 years now..4 jeeps 2 dodges and no Shove roll ehhs! :!:

The only reason I know is I have had a few Chevy's in my past too. :oops: :oops:
Still drive a Duramax daily, but all the work I've done is the past 8-10 years has been AMC (except for a Ford 300 I-6 for a close friend).

Bob
tufcj

Goose

Well I stepped off the Chevy wagon when I stopped racing.. Love em or hate em the Small block chevy is the cheapest build hp per dollar going.. and before they changed to the "New" improved SBC they were a dime a dozen.. I still have a 400 stroker and a 327 stashed away for the future..