Oil fiters and oil types

Patf10

I did a search and couldnt quite find what i was looking for. I have a 360 that is being or almost done being overhauled. My questoin is what oil filter should i use. My adapter does not have the pressure reliefe with the little plunger and spring. So what is the best type to used, i have heard bad things about frams. And what type of oil i have read that they like synthetics better, especially the seals. Id go with the bull tear stuff but its nice to get something right off the shelf. So any brand/type that you guys get good results out of? Thanks Pat

jeepsr4ever

Wix/napa gold/Mobil

BREK

Lately I have been using a k&n oil filter, and castrol 10W40

ironman_gq

i used to use proflow but you canr find them anymore so i use microguard or napa

a440plus6

I aways use Wix and Valvoline 30W for cam breakin, then I drain the oil and replace the filter with same but put Valvoline 10W 30W in and run that for first 500 miles so ring and things break in and seat properly. Then I stay with Wix but change to Mobil 1 full synthetic in the 0W 50W range.

AMX69PHATTY

So should one NOT use just any ol' 10w40 to break in a "new" motor ?

Was there ever any determination if the GM "EOS" available from dealerships
should or should not be added to the oil for break-in ?
The label on the back says not to use it as an oil additive,
and instead talks about using it as an assembly lube
Wondered if this stuff puts back in the oil the stuff they've been takin' out
that's needed for flat tappet cam break in.

Patf10

thanks guys this is the exact info ive been looking for, is my plan for making seals last longer with synthetic legitimate

a440plus6

Yes, after break in period.

fifesjeep

I normally use Purolator or Mobile Oil Filters and Valvoline 20w50 Racing oil When it gets cold I'll drop it down to 10w40... You should always use a thick oil for a "break-in" period... straight weight oil is perfect for this... prime the motor making sure oil is at the top of the motor and fire her up and run her. If at all possible stay away from fram oil filters... Wix is a good filter, K&N are awesome! Kinda pricey and chances are you have to order them (Which are normally a day away)... A ford oil filter is identical to a Purolator filter... Ford filters work with the Jeep I have.. 8) (Man, I hate to admit that)

Dusty

Purolator/ mobile/ Wix / K&N filters and i only use Shell Rotella 15/40 same as my diesels works good have no complaints oil is still golden at 3k-4k so im happy its not sludgy and black

Goose

I use the napa gold filters.. and castrol (When i get some money I'll be trying the Bulltear Super oil.. until then)

mrtazwrench

Dusty wrote
Purolator/ mobile/ Wix / K&N filters and i only use Shell Rotella 15/40 same as my diesels

works good have no complaints oil is still golden at 3k-4k so im happy its not sludgy and black

it's not rotella, but in my old wag I used the 15W40 semi-syn that gets used for diesels at work, seemed to work ok, then when I got my J20 I put in the bulltear oil, after I got some miles on the oil it started to use oil, topped off with the 15W40 at work and that seemed to stop, or at least slow down a lot 111!!! I'm not sure why that is, now I'm using the rest of the case of bulltear oil so I'll see how it goes this time. I've been using the NAPA gold filters.

Steve Obertanec

Be careful of the oil you use for now on. The lovely government has taken zinc out of all "normal" oil. I guess it clogs cat. converters & the auto manufacturers were having problems with emissions warranty.

The deisel oils are good for break in but they are scheduled to remove the zinc from that in the spring.

Try going to www.amref.com & check out their racing oil. They have a break in oil available it is about $4.00 a quart & the "Green Oil" is the old Kendall GT racing oil. It is semi-synthetic & does have zinc in it & is only about $34.00 a case.

I am a dealer for this Brad Penn oil & use it in my 10 sec. Gremlin & have had great success using it. If anyone is interested in hearing more about the oil feel free to E-Mail me with any questions.

Steve Obertanec

ob3326@neo.rr.com

AMX69PHATTY

Went to my local NAPA and got a couple gallons of Rotella T 15w40 motor oil
and a couple AMC NAPA Gold Oil Filters, Part #1258
So I guess this is the oil to use for new motor break-in ?
The motor oil that still has the zinc and stuff in it ?
That stuff was $10 a gallon

So these are the "short" Oil Filters ? Not the ones that are "longer" ?
Guess they don't make a NAPA Gold in the longer style for AMC's ?

I remember in the past when buying other brands of oil filters you could get the shorter one or the long one, which held about 1 quart, where the short one holds something less than 1 quart.

Anyone else know what I'm takin' about the 2 oil filter lengths ?
and NAPA Gold only comes in the short ?

Patf10

well i got my engine back from the builder i has a short little filter on it its diameter isnt much bigger than the oil filter adapter itself

zero cool

For break in, I made sure to start by assembling everything with assembly lube. Then I used a Non-Detergent 30 weight oil through the cam break in procedure. I did use a cheap filter knowing that I was only going to run the oil for a very short time and the durability issues of the cheap filter doesn't come into play. After cam break in, I'll use the Wix/Napa Gold/Mobile 1 filters exclusively. After break in, I switched to a regular (i.e. not synthetic) oil. I forget if it was 5W30 or 10W30, I have too many vehicles to remember off hand. At 500 miles on the break in, I'll drain and replace the oil again, this time with a good synthetic. I'll stay with synthetic for the life of the engine.

Steve Obertanec

Phatty the napa # should be a 1049. Try it & see what you get. They are longer.

Patf10

these numbers being listed for filters all good if you dont have the little bypass valve thing?

AMX69PHATTY

Not sure, but I think all filters are ok with the new no by-pass adapter. One thing to pay attention to is Anti-Drain Back feature. Couple days ago bought 2 NAPA Gold AMC Oil Filters but they were the short ones, #1258 which equals Fram #PH25. Took'em back today to exchange for the long ones #1049 = Fram PH11. The longer #1049's did NOT have the Anti-Drainback valve which you can see in the top of the shorter #1258's. So I kept the shorter #1258's since the have the drainback flapper. Anyone else ever noticed this or am I going nuts ?

Patf10

well i have had my engine goin for a while now and i am going to be heading home this week. Id like to get an oil change in im thinkin to go synthetic. i have heard alot of good out or mobil 1. what weight should i look into. im in erie PA so its cold alot. I read that a 10w40 is good in cold?