navycpo Getting down to the last few things on my 360 install on my CJ and the dist. is kicking my ass. I can not get it to go in all the way. It seems like the oil pump shaft is not lining up with the dist ( it has about 3/8 in from setting flush with the intake). After 1-2 hours of trying and then asking someone else to try and not geting it I'm thinking something is not right or overlooking omething. Is there a trick to this? Heres a little more info: - using mached gear set and HEI from bulltear. - New timing cover - Newly rebuilt motor by someone that knows AMC's. HELP this and hooking up my water temp and oil presure gage is all I have left before I can get the Jeep back on the road.
Holeshot You could either tap the engine over with your remote starter button (while pushing the distrib down), turn the crank with a socket on the damper bolt, or use a long straight-blade to turn the pump shaft a cunt hair (or two). If you have #1 where ya want it, the distributor will drop down when the slot in the pump shaft lines up with the end of the distributor shaft. Then re-check rotor is pointed towards #1 when timing mark is at TDC.
AMX69PHATTY It makes it tricky cause the Distributor gears are Helical and the Disributor Shaft turns a little bit when being installed. Like he said, turn the Oil Pump shaft a little with a long screwdriver. Look at the bottom of the distributor shaft, take note of which way it turns from the helical gears when being installed, and try to move the oil pump shaft to line up with it, once it goes in and turns a little bit. Almost as tough as a Levi's zipper in the back seat on Saturday night at the drive in..... :mrgreen:
cobra5laddict i am fighting the same issue,. i will post more when i know but i have tore the front of the engine apart and have the timing cover on the bench.. everything lines up great off the truck.. i think the timing ccover was mis cast.. the bore for the distributor and oil pump drive is too close to the cam gear. :razz: this thing really has me stumped.
navycpo Just a thought, if I pull my fuel pump back off will I be able to see where the dist engages the oil pump? Tried again today moving the oil pump around with no luck. It was a shitty work day on top of friday the 13 so I will give it another try in the AM. THANKS YA'LL FOR THE HELP.
jeepsr4ever We are investigating this and also making master test jigs off OEM specs. Preiously these were in use but we havent used them in a long time and were installing these covers on motors. I cant seem to locate the other jigs so I will make some more up shortly here. ReasonI am saying this is becasue it is theoretically possible that your pins may be clocked somewhat out leaving a very tight for on the distributor and giving you the issues you are having.
navycpo HOLESHOT "socket wrench on the damper bolt and turn the crank" WORKED!! =D> About a 1/2 a turn on the damper and she droped right in. It may run after all. What the hell did we do prior to the web and forum. Thanks
82Waggy A half turn on the damper may have the number one clock position off a tooth - just be aware of it as you may not be able to turn the dizzy enough to time it without bumping the vac advance up against something. Probably easier to install the oil pump after the distributor so you can keep everything lined up and just spin the pump as you insert it to engage.
navycpo Start up and break in whent well!! :t: After the first test drive not missing the 258. Tring not to go over 3500 rpm but man what a dif. when I mash the gas, cant wait to get the break in done. Thanks for all the help with the build. AMC 360 Headman inframe headers performer intake 650 thunder series carb HIE Dist. Comp High Energy 262H cam 4:56 gears 35 tires Duel 2in exh
