PICS & QUESTIONS ABOUT MY 401

GADJIT98

I have recently aquired a 401 :lo1l: and am in the process of disassembly and have a few questions:

** should you label the pushrods just in case you re-use them?
** should you label the rockers & bridges?
** label the head bolts?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but this is my first teardown. The machine shop will take care of assembly, etc, but I would like to get my hands dirty on this part of the process..

Are there any particular things I should make notes on during this? Any special things that need to be labeled, etc? Any surprises, like taking something off and it having a big spring in it? :!:

Also, any ideas on why the rocker bridge is cracked & the rocker arm is crooked?

Any observations on the following pics?

Thank you in advance for your information. I truly appreciate the effort & information you guys have given to me so far :t:

Dave

fuzz401

should you label the pushrods just in case you re-use them junk them get new should you label the rockers & bridges junk then too get new label the head bolts only 2 sizes bag them till needed

tufcj

Looks like a good builder. Like fuzz said, the price of rockers and pushrods are a small percentage of rebuild cost, trash them and buy new. It looks like some are OEM and some are replacements anyway. The OEM parts are 1 piece aluminum, most replacements are a steel bridge with aluminum pads. You could have the heads machined for Chevy style rockers while they're off. It takes machining about .250"-375" off the rocker pedestals and opening up the holes to 7/16". You will need to use guide plates and hardened pushrods. The 502 casting heads are pretty much standard fare on 74 and newer 360 and 401 engines. Nothing special there. Knock out the freeze plugs and hit the water jacket passages with a pressure washer until the water runs clean, that will get rid of most of the loose rust. Bob tufcj

JeepsAndGuns

Man yours is clean compared to what mine looked like when I tore it down. I agree with the others, toss your old pushrods and rocker arms/bridges and buy all new. Thats what I did. I also bought new head bolts and rod bolts for mine.

Look here for a few pics of mine http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/mygallery.ten-id-3428-album-6709

rollen dean montoya

most engines are a mess. it took me 4 hours to clean a 403 olds so i could begin the rebuild.

Mudrat

Dang - that thing is clean already (compared to what I started with) - just slap a new coat of paint on it and drive on :t: Presure blast the crap out of it (literally), have it tanked, machined, tanked and then build :wink:

grignac48

Well it looks like you are at the same stage as I am with mine. What are the thoughts about the timing cover/oil pump/water pump assembly. I have seen alot of stuff here on problems with upgrades to timing gear sets, oil pump, and dizzy follies. Has anyone got this down pat where we can avoid problems. Say a standard rebuild. I know mine had oil pressure problems when it was parked. All the info is kinda overwhelming. Just basic stuff to replace or rebuild. What to avoid mostly. :study:

GADJIT98

I second the question on the oiling/timing stuff. I plan on using Bulltear dizzy & cam gears and most likely the front stuff on the engine, but is it fool proof on the install? or does it require an expierienced AMC builder to get it right?

Here is the game plan so far........

finish disassembly----Does anyone have a spec sheet for measuring everything?

Take it to the shop for magnaflux & Vat

Line bore crank & cam if needed, cylinders if needed

Balance & Blueprint

9:1 cast pistons, Performer intake, 600-650 carb, BIG headers, new pushrods, rockers etc, 3 angle valve job, new oil pan, valley bypass,

What do you guys think of a Performer vs. this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/jeep-amc-v-8-offehauser-dual-port-4bbl-intake-manifold_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQitemZ8007856582QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Am I missing anythng? Do I need roller rockers? Which cam for a good performance sounding idle and still get good vacuum for P-Brakes, Anyone got a Performer for sale, or ANY parts that will help me?

Dave

GADJIT98

OK, I got the heads off today and measured with a dial caliper in the cylinders....actually only the front one on the drivers side....and got 4.165 :t: YeeeeHaaaaaa a virgin block :lo1l: There has been some head work done. Some of the rocker arms are different and some of the rockers have a slightly different metal color to them. This is only the case on the cylinders with aftermarket rocker bridges. Also, the drivers side head gasket did NOT have the triangular holes for the water jackets.....wassup with that? Any problems with that? The passenger side bank appears to only have had a few new rockers & bridges I am scrapping the pushrods, rockers, bridges, head bolts, and rocker bolts. Also taking the heads for boiling or vatting on Monday. Now I am at a crossroad. Roller Rockers or Not? Is it as simple as bolting them on and having someone adjust them? Or is it pretty involved with machine work and calculating the geometry of the valve train? What are the HP gains with Rollers? Is it worth it, or can I get 350 to 400 HP without them? I plan on using 9:1 pistons. Should I get a Performer Intaker with an EGR or No---2131 vs 3731? Fuzz401-----you had the right number, I slept late :? Thanks Dave

tarior

I'm not as experienced as some of these guys out here, but I say roller rockers good, you will need new studs, of course. I used ARP studs for SBC on my 360, with no mods to the heads. You won't need rollers, but they are nice, and if you are buying new rocker arms, you may as well spend a few bucks more and get a set of Sharp's rollers. They adjust just like stamped rockers. However, if you use valves with a tip and/or overall length that is different from stock AMC, you will need to build/ buy a pushrod length checker and order correct length pushrods. If you're going over 400 HP, you may as well switch to studs on the heads. Replace your rod bolts and have the big ends resized. New main bolts; good. I hear BBC (two bolt)are the same, studs aren't a bad idea. EGR; bad. Buy the one without. I'm sure that if I missed anything, or am way off, the guys here will set it straight.

tufcj

Harland Sharp (www.harlandsharp.com) makes a bolt on roller rocker P/N SV4004. Any GM style rocker will require guide plates, aftermarket studs, and the machining I described above on the heads you have.

Don't worry about EGR unless you have to pass emissions and they do a visual check. I've got one of the Offy dual ports, but I've never run it (bought it for $50 at a swap meet). I've heard mixed reviews on them.

Big tube headers will hurt your bottom end a bit. If you're rock crawling or trail riding, stick to 1 5/8" tubes to get a little more torque.

If you have the extra cash, do a port/polish on the heads along with your other mods. It really woke up my 360.

Bob
tufcj

tarior

tufcj wrote
Harland Sharp (www.harlandsharp.com) makes a bolt on roller rocker P/N SV4004. Any GM style rocker will require guide plates, aftermarket studs, and the machining I described above on the heads you have.

Don't worry about EGR unless you have to pass emissions and they do a visual check. I've got one of the Offy dual ports, but I've never run it (bought it for $50 at a swap meet). I've heard mixed reviews on them.

Big tube headers will hurt your bottom end a bit. If you're rock crawling or trail riding, stick to 1 5/8" tubes to get a little more torque.

If you have the extra cash, do a port/polish on the heads along with your other mods. It really woke up my 360.
Bob
tufcj

Yeah, and what he said, too!

Edit: fixed it for ya... didn't make sense inside Bobs post. 'Ratt :wink:

jeepsr4ever

Carefull that your not just measuring the ridge at the top. You should use a bore guage or have a friend use one.

Mudrat

2" tube acceptable compromise on a built 360 (actually a 382 after bore)?

GADJIT98

Thanks for all the info & opinions so far, they are really helping!

Here are the latest pics:

Got any insight as to the condition? Anyone notice the difference between the two head Gaskets? The drivers side doesnt have the triangular cutouts ........

BTW, I am building this CJ for a street rod with very little off roading. I plan to get another one, maybe a 5 and build a good off road machine.

Thanks

Mudrat

Hey Mr GADJIT - got a 404 error on all pics????

GADJIT98

Mudrat, Dunno what happened, they should be fixed now. I took the main caps off......... I will post pics soon. Dave

Mudrat

Well they're working now ?? And yours is STILL cleaner than mine was when I started - at least your cylinder walls have a reflection :wink:
Click the pic for larger view ...

This is the drivers head after I got it off and put it on the bench!!!

'Course - this is what it looks like when I brought it home :t:

Larger better pics to follow on this one :?

GADJIT98

LOL @ the head pic Looks like your head was snorting coke :razz: Great looking motor. I assume you used the rattle can stuff from Ebay?? How does it hold up long term? If you used another type, what is it and where can I get some? my digi cam batteries died, so pics will be here monday night of the mains etc. Can I just pop the rod caps off, take a pic, and then hand tighten them back, rotate and doit it again, etc. Or should I be more careful with this part. My crank looks to me like it is in good shape to the naked eye so I want to protect it as much as possible. Thanks Dave

Mudrat

Hehehehe - that's kittly litter coming outta the head!!!! :shock: It's a rattle can of AMC Blue for the local dealer, don't know how it holds up yet other than the lifing cahin scrated it pretty good :(: I just started putting on the extra stuff, brackets that I have, motor mounts etc. Got to get the rest of them and a tranny before I can stuff it in the CJ :smile: But it'll be a screamer once it's in there!!!