Brett Polwell
Does someone have a picture of how a two piece drive shaft set up looks. Every place around here says there is no way to make a drive shaft work after seeing the amount of room I have.
I have 401 with a 727 and Dana 300 in a 1991 Wrangler. I have a spring over set up with a Dana 44 front axle out of a 1975 J20.
I have been driving all summer with a two wheel drive Jeep. I would really like to try this thing out in the mud.
OLD SCHOOL CJ
I just removed my two pice drive shaft from my cj let me tell you it wont hold up, i am now looking for an answer to the same problem you have with this set up. the best solution so far is to use a 999 tranny. but if you want to see the two pice set up try looking at old commando jeeps they had this set up. good luck
jeepsr4ever
You will need to space your T-case down 1.25"s and possibly notch the tranny pan. If you have a 4" lift then just drop the T-case using spacers and it should give you enough room. You can also have the first part of your driveshaft made out of a smaller thicker tubing.
pyagid
When MC says Drop, i think he means Clock it down. Not actually install a drop kit for the tranny and everything.
If you clock the t-case with an adapter ring it should give you the clearance needed
-Paul
Brett Polwell
Thanks for the info. I have a spring over now so I have plenty of lift. Are the clocking rings I see on Ebay what I need. If so, what else is needed to install?
jeepsr4ever
Brett a clocking ring would work awesome! Remember to use a little silly cone so your not leaking and everything should be with the kit. Good luck and let us know how it goes. :t:
bor
I am in the same situation. I am going to try and modify my tranny pan to fit a CV yoke up front. If not a CV, at least a 1350 set up with a smaller outside diameter/thicker wall thickness tube. I believe Tom woulds makes a set up like that. I am going to try and modify a deeper aluminum pan or maybe have a steel one made to fit. I will keep you posted. I will be talking to my fabricator buddies maybe today or tomorrow. This set up has come up many times before and has never really been addressed as far as a 727/d300 combo fit.
Brett Polwell
I looked into the clocking ring but I can't find one that will clock the t-case down. Everybody makes one that will clock it up. I have read in a few places that you don't need anything special as long as you have enough lift. After looking at it in person I can't believe it. Let me know what you find out. This is the last thing I need to put together after two years of building this thing.
Dallas Lemon
The two piece driveshaft is not that uncommon. I have a buddy with a 401 and 727 that has run a two piece for years with no issues. It takes a VERY strong cross piece to mount the carrier bearing just in front of the xfer case where the short shaft will be mounted to. From there, a CV or ujoint down to the yoke. His has taken a tremendous amout of abuse!
bor
Hey Bret, I spoke to my fabricator and he is wanting to get together this week and take a look see at my pan situation. Should have an answer this week if you could hold out. I am looking at the following options-
1. Modify stock pan bolt flange along passenger side for more clearance.
2. I have a cast aluminum pan that is deep dish and will see if he can modify the passenger side of the pan that would include the pan wall and the bolt flange.
Make a custom stainless pan to fit. I will use the old pan for a template and just match the wall pattern form there. it really shouldn't take that much to figure out. I will keep you posted and post pics when possible.
jeepsr4ever
Every clokcing ring can be mounted to clock the T-case down or up...except those that are stepped down.
bor
I have spent a couple of hours comtemplating the modification. I believe that I will do both. Get a clocking ring and modify my tranny pan. Clocking the x-case up will move the yoke/shaft away from the pan. Clocking it down will give you more clearance on the side and under the pan towards the front edge of the pan. If you use a stock low profile pan. clocking it down will definitely give you what you need for clearance with the ability to upgrade you output shaft yoke to a 1350/ big shaft upgrade (yummy) I am going to attempt this with a deep TCI cast aluminum pan and then go to Tom woods for the driveshaft. They make the "suprer flex"u-joint/yoke combo that use a thicker walled, smaller diameter tube that I believe you can get in a 1310 yoke, maybe larger. I could be wrong: Have faith brother, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
jeepsr4ever
Watch out on those Super flex joints...they like to vibrate at high revs. What I have done in the past is drop the T-case 1" and used aty least a 4" spring. Worked great but their are alot of ways to go. As long as your pinion snub/bump stop holds true you should never have any problems. the first time I did the swap years ago when waggies were $$$$$$$$ I MELTED a drivesahft in half...is disbelief I grabbed the end of it only to make my fingers shiney #-o
YEOUCH!
bor
Yep, I read about them and I beleive they even have a disclaimer when you buy them. I have at least a 4" spring over. I have 2.5 in the springs and had some spring perches made from box tubing. Theres at least another 2 inches there, all on top of the axle. Again, I am running 42"TSLs----
I thought I would give ole' Tom woods a call and pick thier brains----
Have you ever seen anyone mount a CV joint at the diff pinion??? You could protect it with some plate welded to the pumpkin (theory only)
bor
Hey Bret--- I just ordered a clocking ring from Go2Guy- Ken Blume down in Arkansas. His clocking ring is steel and only 1/4 thick. The second or third adjustment will bring the center of your output shaft up 3-1/4' and due to the radius will move the output away from your tranny 1". That does not sound like much but I check out mine and I believe now I can get a larger diameter (HD) driveshaft with out the worry of hitting the tranny pan. BINGO!!!!!- Ken was great to chat with--- Very informative.
Brett Polwell
Thanks a bunch. I will call him today.
