tyrodtom wrote When you hammer the weld you are actually ( if you're useing a hammer on one side and a dolly on the other) compressing the weld, forging it.
A mig weld bead is harder right from the torch because of the shielding gas, there's fewer impurities in the weld.
When you were talking about hammering the weld were you talking about acteyline torch or a mig welder.
Tyrodtom - yup was Mig'n everything. I set up some coupons and practiced with the 16ga I was using just to get a feel for the heat and penetration
I'd run a short bead and dolly the weld, bead/dolly, bead/dolly. Finally just said screw it and ran about a 1" bead, go the other side of the run with a bead working out from the middle about 8-10 inches between beads then let it cool before going back and connecting the dots. I found the hammer and dolly wasn't doing like it showed in the books or video, so I used a flap wheel and smoothed them out. I got some distortion, but hey! It's a Jeep :wink: It's fine for a trail Jeep, but not something I would do on the GW or the 56 T-Bird mama-san wants though :oops:
I rebuilt this whole 'B' piller, rocker, p-side floor and the upright area where the roll bar mounts, and the whole rear deck (rolled in the stiffeners too!) using this method. You can see it's not perfect - but there is NO bondo at all on this CJ!!!

Pat