JeepsAndGuns
Well I am hopeing either this weekend or next to start assembly of my 401 that I have been working on for the past year. It has taken me that long to get the money to buy all the parts and get the machiene work done as I could afford it. I will outline what I have just to let ya know. Then list my final questions about assembly and break in. Also, this is my first engine build (from scratch) but I am not new to engines. I have been working on them since middle school (currently 4 years out of high school) Just all the work I have done before has been repair on running engines. This is my first total overhaul. I just want to make sure I get it right the first time.
Engine: 77 401 from a cherokee
Block. cleaned, bored/honed (.040) new cam bearings (already checked for proper alighnment with oil holes) all new freeze plugs and new cam plug. All bolt holes cleaned and re taped (by me)
Heads: regular (not the high comp) cleaned, checked (magnafluxed) standard valve job, new valve guides, valve seals and new freeze plugs, and resurfaced.
Crank: cleaned, checked, polished (at .010/.010) balanced with my new flywheel and harmonic balancer.
Rods/pistons: rods cleaned, checked, weight matched/balanced. New speed pro stock type cast pistons (.040) weight matched with rods.
New parts: clevite 77 rod and main bearings. Rollmaster timing chain set (all billet) Comp cams 256H cam and lifter set. ARP head bolts. Hastings moly rings. Fel-pro complete engine gasket set. All brand new: pushrods, rocker arms and piviots/bridges. Brand new oil pickup tube. Brand new timing chain cover and gears from yall, plus the stainless steel midplate too. Stock oil filter adapter cleaned and checked (by me) and the filter bypass pluged. New matched cam/dizzy gears (also from yall) New (1in long) alighnment pins for the timing chain cover. and a new water pump.
Engine will be toped off by a holley street dominator intake (that is currently on the 360 that I will be replaceing) And a brand new holley truck avenger 670cfm carb. Exhaust will be the stock manafolds with a single 2.5in exhaust dumping right in front of the rear axle.
Final questions I have.
I know I am supposed to oil the head bolts with motor oil. What weight oil, or does it matter, and is it a light coat (like just put some on your finger and rub it on the threads, or a good coat, like dip the bolt in the oil and then install it. Also I assume the same goes for the rod bolts and the main bolts??
Intake gasket (valley pan) Should I use a sealer? I have a can of that copper spray sealer (for the metal side of the head gaskets) should I spray a coat of that on the intake gasket? Now for the RTV part. I know you are supposed to use some around the water ports. Do you use the blue (like you would for the water pump and thermostat housing) or do you use the black. Now for the end seals, whe color for that? I looked at the diffrent colors at the parts stores and the grey says its good for intakes and end seals. Should I use that?
Bearings. Should I install them dry in the engine recesses, or should I put a light coat of oil on the back side (back side of the beaing that is) I have plenty of assembly lube for the front.
Oil. I have heard a few diffrent opinions on what oil I should use for break in. Most say use dino oil (non synthetic) but what weight to use varreys with who I ask. So I am asking yall. A couple of them have said to use straight 30 weight. Then once it breaks in what weight would be the best. 10w30?
Timing and carb. Since the carb is brand new you think I will have any problems during break in? I have a electric fuel pump so getting fuel is no problem, just wondering about getting the carb set right. Any tips on pre start carb adjustments? And timing, I guess just try and line up the #1 terminal with the rotor and then once the engine fires just do it by ear untill the cam is broken in and you can drop it back to idle and do it correctly?
Breaking it in. Once everything is all put together and oil system is primed and ready to fire it up. It generally seems you need to take it straight to around 2k rpm as soon as the engine fires and hold it there steady for 20 min. Do I have these number correct? 2000 rpm for 20 min? Some have said every couple min to take it to the redline to seat the rings. Is this correct? Once the 20min time is up you can drop it back down to idle and set the timing and adjust the carb. The take it for a short drive makeing sure not to lug the engine and vary the rpm's. But no long drive. Correct?
I am hopeing to get a smooth running engine with good low end/midrange power that will last a long time. You think I will acheive this goal? I am sure I have more questions, but just cant think of them right now so I will post them as I think of them. Sorry for the long post, I am just wanting to get it done right. I tried to do my homework and also tried to get the best parts I could afford too. If there is anything I have left out please let me know. I appreicate any help you can give me.
---Jared
jeepsr4ever
Bearings install dry then coat the crank side with assembly or bearing lube right before you install the crank. Remember to install the rods with the caps lining up on the right side and rotate the assembly after each rod is torqued.
Use a little motor oil on each stud for the mains and the heads....weight doesnt matter.
Use a smear on the valley pan gasket and use the Blue RTV
Do not use synthetic oil for breaking in your camshaft and keep the engine over 2000rpms for at least 2 minutes. It doesnt matter if the oil has polymers or not and strait weight oil is only a suggestion an dis used from the factory because it is very cost effective.....dont worry about that. Use 5w40 for 500 miles 10w40 till 2000miles and 15w40 after that
cj5steve
hi i just went through this myself.we fired it and ran it straight to around 2000rpm's(i have no tach).every once and a while i reved it up maybe to 4 or 5 grand.we did it for about 20 minutes.my pistons that are ross racing pistons came with paper work that said to break in with nondetergent oil.all the parts store had was staight 30 weight so thats what i used.so far the motor is running so good i blew my tranny up inside of a week(yes i was beating the hell out of it on the street).as for everything else sounds good.i hope it works out for you.i had some problems with my motor that i think you have already taken care of such as the matched dizzy gear and cam gear.a few other little problems i had but nothing big.good luck let us know how you make out.
jeepsr4ever
Wow Steve you took your tranny out already!
cj5steve
yeah i blew it up.i have another t-150 that is going in it now,but i am looking at putting in a ford t-18.i just have to find some good information on the swap.alot of the info im finding is pretty open ended and leaves alot to figure out.
JeepsAndGuns
jeepsr4ever wroteBearings install dry then coat the crank side with assembly or bearing lube right before you install the crank. Remember to install the rods with the caps lining up on the right side and rotate the assembly after each rod is torqued.
Use a little motor oil on each stud for the mains and the heads....weight doesnt matter.
Use a smear on the valley pan gasket and use the Blue RTV
Do not use synthetic oil for breaking in your camshaft and keep the engine over 2000rpms for at least 2 minutes. It doesnt matter if the oil has polymers or not and strait weight oil is only a suggestion an dis used from the factory because it is very cost effective.....dont worry about that. Use 5w40 for 500 miles 10w40 till 2000miles and 15w40 after that
When you say use a smear on the valley pan gasket, do you mean a smear of oil?
ok, blue for the water ports on the intake, what about the end seals?
Did you mean to say 20 min or 2? for the break in. And correct about reving every few min. (like cj5steve said)?
Thanks for the help so far.
Gremlin4ever
I think the Cam manufacture would have the correct break in procedure. I have always heard running on initial start up between 2k-3k for at least 30 minutes. Then normal driving operations for 500-1000 miles before ya raw dog it to get the rings to seal.
And what about changing the oil & filter after 5 minutes into breaking in the cam? I've heard that is very good practice as well. Any opinions?
FSJer
recently seen an oil filter that has magnet's placed around the outdise of it , i think this would be great especially for break in , especially when you have all those metal particles flying around , most of the particles stick to the oil filter.
I am thinking about getting my 360 once built , run in on an engine dyno , just to be safe . think spending all you hard earned cash on an engine , i'd rather be safe than sorry. also you can get the ideal setup & proven before you put it in your JEEP. if it was a stock rebuild , i'd run it in myself. but for my up and coming 360 build it will have some $$$ parts ( Ross or Wiseco forged pistons @ 11.0:1 ( PROPANE ), gapless rings , scat H-beams rods , cryogenic treatment , HPC coated parts, etc )
FSJer
saw that article last night on the magnetic filter , except only to find out it is actually a cover you slide over your oil filter , so can can use it amny times , heard the magnetic force within the filter is something like half a ton of pressure for metal particles to stick to the outside wall of the filter , also that alot of race teams use them , 1st i have heard of them . I'm Sold ,I'm getting on.
tarior
You can buy rare earth (neodymium) magnets at Radshack for a couple of buck and stick them to your oil filter :sa:
FSJer wrotesaw that article last night on the magnetic filter , except only to find out it is actually a cover you slide over your oil filter , so can can use it amny times , heard the magnetic force within the filter is something like half a ton of pressure for metal particles to stick to the outside wall of the filter , also that alot of race teams use them , 1st i have heard of them . I'm Sold ,I'm getting on.
