Lifted79CJ7
For all of you who have blue printed your engine to some degree at home, did you have your parts hot tanked then take it all home to work on it, or did you guys just work on a dirty engine?
tufcj
CLEAN - CLEAN - CLEAN... My 390 was bored, crank turned and balanced, rods sized. Everything was tanked at the shop. Got it home and hung it on the engine stand, washed with soapy water and engine brushes, then rinsed with a pressure washer. Blow dry with compressed air, and then spray with WD-40 so it doesn't rust. All the lifter galleys, all oil passages, bores, everything. I did the oil valley line before it ever went to the machine shop. Crank and rods washed too before install. You want to be ABSOLUTELY sure there's no machining grit left, it will work like emery paper in your new engine.
Bob
tufcj
fuzz401
before my motors go to the machine shop I wash all the parts in dow oven cleaner and dawn dish soap then what ever work I want to do to the parts then to the shop then wash them when I get them back before putting it together
Lifted79CJ7
OK, that kinda answers my question - just depends on what tickles your fancy. Basically I was wondering if you guys take it to the shop to have it cleaned, bring it home, then take it back to the shop of the rest of the work (honing, boring, etc).....
Thanks :t:
fuzz401
I run brushes down all the oil passages pull all the plugs and scrub away do all my grinding and drilling then to the shop to me the cleaner I get it the cleaner it comes back to me
Gremlin4ever
No fancy, just get all the parts as clean as ya can before assembly. Mine is a slower proccess for money reasons so I had the block, crank and rods hot tanked and magnafluxed first to make sure I had good parts with no cracks. Brought them home for grinding all sharp edges and brushing the rusty spots for treatment. Now all three pieces plus the main studs and bearings are back to the shop for more work. When I get them back this time, the block should be all done but the cylinders and the crank turned and the rods rebuilt.
When I decide on the pistons and get the valley line installed, it goes back for boring/honing and balancing of the rotating assembly. That should be all the machine work I'll need on the short block. Just bought some heads at the AMO Nationals here in Georgia that will see their way to the shop in a few weeks.
All in all, I think it's how knowledgeable you are on this subject to do the job right. Fancy has nothing here unless your not looking for an engine that will make it to 50k miles.
Dirt is the #1 enemy to an engine no matter who you are or where it runs.
FSJer
I just feel the the saying "Done right " , there are so many interpretations of it , one's person right is the another persons wrong . At the end of the day , i feel its your vehicle that its goin into , then so long as you are happy with the end result.
My interpratation of Engine printing is mainly "Ultra Precise" machine work & assembly. The more you check and re-check , generally the better it will be. Spose also if you can ask for advice for different set ups , from specialist machineists & performance builders with out it hurting your ego, then you can become alot the more knowledgeable and the the stronger your skills can become and the quality shop on which ever item you are working on( engine , drivetrain , etc )
Also i have read and have seen the differences between top engine builders , that everyone has a different feel for measuring equipment especially in engine building. like when measuring clearances for mains & journals ( crank ), everyone will come up with a slight variation in tolerances to each other, just like no one is the same on this earth , like people who are twins, triplets , they are individuals in the end , slighty different to each other .
Just an Opinion...........
Rogue Racer
Cleanliness is longevity and power.
Having built NHRA stock class engines most of my life, I testify that details make a big difference. When two engines are built with the same parts selection (camshaft, pistons, valve springs, etc. etc.) and same blueprint specifications, yet one makes 30-40 hp more, it is the details that make the difference.
Goose
I would add that I think it is less "Trade secret or secret recipes" that make power and more who is willing to go the extra thousandths of an inch to make it "RIGHT" not good enough.. I am a firm believer that the most power gained for the money is in Balancing an engine..both physically balancing the rotating assy and in balance in what parts you use..
Gremlin4ever
The best way to clear this up would be to build two engines with all the same parts. One engine is to be built useing factory specs while the second being balanced & blue printed. Then Dyno both and see what ya got. My money is on the balanced/blue printed engine making more horsepower every time no matter what parts are chosen for this experiment.
