JeepsAndGuns I got a new set of head bolts for my 401 (ARP) and it has a small instruction shet that says to lube the threads before you install them. They say to use their moly lube (but it didnt come with any, go figure) or at the very least, a good quality moly lube. They said they reccomend the moly lube over motor oil. I went to a local engine machiene shop (that rebuild engines) and told them about it and asked if they had any type of moly lube. They didnt have any, and he said they use moor oil, he said that I could use some assembly lube if I wanted. My question is what should I use? It says to use moly lube but I cant find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get some? The guys at the parts stores have no idea what I am talking about when I say moly lube. Also, I read about haveing to use some RTV on one or two head bolts on a 360 because they enter a water jacket. Does the 401 have the same problem? I took a flashlight with a fiber optic attachment on it and looked in all the head bolt holes and looked for light in the water jacket area, and then shined it in the water jacket areas and looked in the bolt holes and never saw any light, but that dont mean anything. If I need to use some sealer on one or more bolts can someone tell me witch ones? Thanks
Goose Well I may be steering you wrong here BUT. I have always used clean motor oil on my head bolts (unless its an aluminum block in which case antisieze) but as I understand the lube is to insure a consistant torque reading.. as for the sealer on specific bolts.. no clue, I have never used any and havent had any trouble. (of course you realize all this means nothing if you aren't holding you'r mouth right when you do it. :wink: )
fuzz401 as far as the arp studs call them and see if they will send you a tube of the moly - I would use it to keep the tork even when you do it -- and use there tork spec when you do the bolts too I think the early head bolt at one time did go into the water jacket but I have not seen any that do
JeepsAndGuns These are bolts, not studs. Here is what the sheet says about torque. Preload (torque) recommendations: Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufactures torque sequence but do not use the engine manufactures torque specs. Torque the bolts to 85 ft-lbs for ARP moly assembly lube or torque to 130 ft-lbs with 30wt motor oil. That dont make mutch sense to me. Factory specs say 110 ft-lbs. I'm not gonna torque them to 85 ft lbs becaause that probably aint enough. But I am almost afraid to torque them to 130 cause I dont want to mess anything up. I am gonna use the factory specs. I dont se how doing that is gonna hurt anything.
fuzz401 there moly lube is slick stuff the reason for the lower tork is there is not much friction when you use it compared to motor oil I would go with there tork and not the factory tork or the heads might not be tight enough I went with the factory tork on rod bolts because the shop did not tell me not to and they came loose and cracked my block this is what happened to my 401 block so go buy what they say
JeepsAndGuns Whats diffrent about these head bolts as opposed to the stock ones? The factory head bolts hold the heads on at factory torque, so whay cant these? I am asumeing that the factory probably used oil on the bolts and torqued them to 110 ft lbs. But why do these bolts need 130 ft lbs? I thought that arp bolts were supposed to be better and stronger than stock, if so then why do they need 130 ft lbs of torque when the factory ones only need 110? So your saying that if I use factory torque specs my engine will blow up? On the engine in the pics, are those the stock rods/rod bolts? Or after market. If those are non stock I could understand, but if they are stock then I would think there was somthing more than just the torque alone that caused it to come loose. If your not supposed to use factory torque specs then what are you supposed to use? Bubbas back yard engine shops torque specs? OK, I can mabey understand steping up the torque for useing oil instead of their special lube, I could probably do that. But even if I used their special lube I would still take it to the factory 110 ft lbs instead of the 85 they say. I am just afraid that is not enough torque, and if the stuff is a slick as you say the I would worry about them backing out or comeing loose. Since I dont have their moly lube I will probably just use oil. You would think that if they want you to use it so bad then they would give you some with the bolts.
jeepsr4ever Dont worry so much about the moly lube you will never know the difference in your motor. And torque it to factory specs...ARP bolts can take the torque. The torque rating is for priorities in this order.....gasket sealing, thermal expansion and head integrity. Forget about 75lbs and throw that paper away...If I remember right the AMC bolt kits were cross-referenced from big block chevy anyways
