Headers or stock manifold?

JeepGuy24

Thanks for the advice. Mine is a daily driver Wagoneer, some towing (19' power boat), some sand (Hatteras). I need a new Y-pipe, so I'm trying to figure out what I should plan on replacing while I'm at it. Exhaust is about 4 yrs old (Middas/stock). I'm going to be flowing more air into the engine....time to get it out.

tarior

I have had to take every set of headers that I have ever gotten and weld around flange to tube joint and then gasket match them with a die grinder, I sure hope for the $ that the Edelbrock or Thorley headers fit without this. :roll:

rollbar

As for the Headman headers they do hit the pan w/a auto on the passenger side (Tf-999 that is). Statement/Question: I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds off of a 78' J-10 I was told that they will not work on a CJ since they do not bend down quick enough & that thet will hit the fire wall, is there any truth to this. I haven't installed the tub yet so I don't know if they will hit. Thanks, RollBar :-|

Lifted79CJ7

I have heard the same thing before, but I have no first hand experience. I think one of them fits and the other doesn't. I think it was the passenger side manifold that doesn't fit? :-|

rollbar

Hummmm, thanks. Can anyone confirm this? Can/if it is the passenger side can a 90* bend be added just after the manifold to make it work OR will it just not work? Thanks, RollBar

Goose

Well I took the passenger side Stock manifold off of my J-10 (1984)Left over after header install and replaced a cracked stocker on a 1977 CJ-5. As near as I could tell they were identical in all respects, everything bolted right back up.. So my guess is if they work on a 5 they will also work on a 7..

Mudrat

Goose wrote
So my guess is if they work on a 5 they will also work on a 7..

I would give a definate maybe :wink: All things considered, the changes between a 5 and 7 were under the seats and location of the skid, so what's forward of that is interchangeable fenders, rad, round lights :shock: So as ling as you haven't changed anything with the engine mount locations should be good-to-go :t:

Mud

rollbar

thanks

John C

I used hedman in frame with my T-400 auto in my 83 CJ-7. they clear everything. Not even close to having contact with anything the entire length of the tube. But the flanges have to be the worst fitting pieces of junk I have ever seen. I installed Race-pro copper gaskets tourqed everything down, fired the ole' girl up and it sounded like 22rimfire bullets going off under the hood. Removed the hedders and found that the crush zones on the copper gaskets were in a lot of cases overlapping the exhaust port. No way to seal if there is nothing available to crush a gasket between. Did the whole cut the tie bar, grind, hammer, grind, hammer. but if the flange mounting holes don't allow the ports to line up there is only so much you can do. I run Hooker now and am O.K. with them. Seems to be a twin to the Hedman but the flanges line up much better.

Goose

Ohh I agree.. I would never buy the cheapies again.. This is definately one area where a few extra bucks prevents years aof aggravation...

GADJIT98

Not to be contrary, but my cheapie Hedmans are great.......... That said, it took about 4 hours of grinding on the intake and alot of work with a dial caliper to get it just right. Almost a year and no leaks!!!!!!! If I had it to do over, I would have gone with a better quality, ceramic set up due to the fact that the "shipping paint" on the headmans burned off within about 2 hours. Dave

Mudrat

GADJIT98 wrote
That said, it took about 4 hours of grinding on the intake and alot of work with a dial caliper to get it just right. Almost a year and no leaks!!!!!!!

Dave

Ummm ...Gadjit????? Why would you grind the intake to fit an exhaust on a V8? :roll:

GADJIT98

LOL, guess that wouldnt make much sense now would it :oops: I should have read the previous message & sig a little closer. I was referring to the 258 intake & headers being a few .000's different in thickness. The HEDMAN solution was a series of tubes with keyways welded on...... My solution was the whole measure & grind method. It works great, but its a lot of work. One thing I am keenly aware of is the fact that grinding on a V8 intake will do absolutely nothing for header fitment :shock: Dave

Mudrat

GADJIT98 wrote
LOL, guess that wouldnt make much sense now would it :oops:

I should have read the previous message & sig a little closer. I was referring to the 258 intake & headers being a few .000's different in thickness.

The HEDMAN solution was a series of tubes with keyways welded on......

My solution was the whole measure & grind method. It works great, but its a lot of work. One thing I am keenly aware of is the fact that grinding on a V8 intake will do absolutely nothing for header fitment :shock:

Dave

Hehehehehe glad you woke up and smelled the fuel line :wink: The problem I have moving my Clifford stuff from the CJ to the YJ (both built 258's) is the headers and the kick-down for the daughter-child's auto-kick-down #-o

tarior

Without exception, I have had to take every set of headers I have ever bought and weld around the flange, and then gasket match them with a die grinder. I just assume buy cheap if I am going to have to spend a few hours making them fit anyhow.

jeepsr4ever

I have had very good luck with hedmans but I must point out that they are almost completely made for stock unported heads. They dont have much meat to be grinding away but you can always add metal.

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