4 link or strong arm conversion to a CJ???? anyone

Dusty

I'm just thinking out loud right now. so take it for what it worth. Just initially starting to dabble with the idea of front coils on the scrambler, my never ending project I am thinking that i can use the Rubicon Express long arms which basically are a strong arm setup since the upper axle link no longer ties to the frame as it would with a true 4 link, right???. So i would only have to measure and fab two frame mounts on the inside of my front frame rails. The reason for the use of the RE arms is that they are an off the shelf item, bend one and you can call up RE and have it there next day and also used kits are starting to pop up too. With my front axle being a narrowed wagoneer D44 to wide track CJ specs 55" i should be able to mount some AFW upper coil buckets to my frame and use the TJ coils. Then RE sells a bracket set for front axle conversions for a TJ that i sould be able to use on the D44. so the coils would angle in a little about 1" to 1 1/2" inch angled in. for the panhard/ track bar i have to keep in line with the draglink right same angle, does the length need to be the same also? actually this is where one of my question arises. i have heard all sorts of therories about setting this up. if i mount to the fram above the axle on the driverside frame rail then the mount on the axle needs to be raised and positioned on the axle to accomodate the length and angle of the draglink. what happens if the panhard is longer than the drag link? do you think you could get away with using the factory front sway bar or would it even be necessary? How do you avoid death wobble So who has done this how has it worked, lets see some pictures since everyone always over at pirates posts rear 4 link pictures but very few post a sucessful front 4 link picture. 111!!! Its just a thought right now, mainly because i was envious of the suspension flex and handling of a Cherokee this weekend. I have always thought that a coiled front and a leaf rear suspension is a great way to go but when it goes past leaf springs i start questioning my fabricating ability. so a picture is worth a thousand words how about some thoughts ideas potential issues. would it work, how would it handle is it really that beneficial when compared to the cost? L/R long arms = $500 L/R short links = $250 Coils = $150 (unless you get lucky and get used ones) Frame coil buckets = $350 or get junk yard specials for $50 axle brackets RE = $350 limiting straps = $20 Panhard bar = $100 Its fun to talk about it though

jeepsr4ever

how about this coils=$150 4130 seamless chromo= $4.79 ft rod ends= $9.00 ea heim joints= $38.00 ea msc scrap metal under $15 This is my recipe, I will have pics next month

Dusty

OK i like your method better

Tigger

The prices you have on the RE stuff is too high, you can get them less expensively. RE's rules don't allow me to post prices so if you want to know just send me a PM.

Death wobble is cause by alignment. with the long arms you should be able to dial in your alignment and not have it. Most people get it when they don't bother to do an alignment after a lift.

An adjustable track bar would be the way to go so you can dial that in also and keep your front axle centered.

www.rocktaxi.com I know he has done the coil/leafs on a CJ he has some tech articles but if not what you are looking for shoot him an email he is a really nice guy to talk to.

Lifted79CJ7

I would say try to keep the panhard the same length as the draglink. Never really studied it too much, but seems like the way to go (off the top of my head). If one is longer than the other, during compression and droop, you will start to get steering issues with the wheel pulling one way or the other (I would imagine). I'm not 100% here, but that is how my brain operates after years of malted hops doing it's damage.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880557/002-1956236-1103203?v=glance

My friend Cory had this book and it is VERY informative. It has a lot to do with race car chasis engineering, but the same principles can be applied to the off road workld. I highly recommend it.

Jack

Mudrat

BTT ... would like to know how this goes or get an update ...
Jack, the Panhard and draglink same lenght??? The triangulation won't work if they are the same size...

Mudrat

Lifted79CJ7 wrote
I would say try to keep the panhard the same length as the draglink. Never really studied it too much, but seems like the way to go (off the top of my head). If one is longer than the other, during compression and droop, you will start to get steering issues with the wheel pulling one way or the other (I would imagine). I'm not 100% here, but that is how my brain operates after years of malted hops doing it's damage.

Jack

Lifted79CJ7

:-|

Mudrat

BTT - Still want to know how this one goes so I'm bumping it back to the top. As for Lifted wanting a beer - he got one yesterday after we got the CJ running - again! Mudrat

Dusty

:-| If i could just get enough time to put the motor into the heep and get it all set at teh right hieght then id be able to start dabbling. Budgeted.................... Dusty

Mudrat

If i could just get enough time to put the motor into the heep and get it all set at teh right hieght then id be able to start dabbling. Budgeted....................

Dusty

KNow that feeling - it's been 4 years since mine was on the road :smile:

Mudrat