I am going to get beaten for this one cj7 for an 8

Dusty

I found a CJ-8 frame, roll bar and tub. nothing else no column or wires ect. the guy is willing to sell for 700, Or the guy is willing to take just my 1960 cj7 tub and frame in exhange plus $100 and i get to strip all my goodies off my CJ tub to put onto the Scambler What would your response be here. I said hell yes. $100 and some elbow grease swapping everything over and i get to upgrade from a 7 to a 8 gee let me think. 401 w/FI nv4500 D300 with D44 and D60 all in a CJ8 no smog to deal with. 111!!! I might be missing a few marbles right now but i garauntee that my group is going to beat me into oblivion for showing up with an 8 instead of a 7, talk about an upgrade in room. I'm spring under right now, i might think about spring over with a Scrambler. I'll keep you all posted on if this materializes. Hopefully the dude hasnt hacked up the 8 tub and it hasnt rusted any since last time i saw it. it was originally getting stripped for Baja racing and then has sat in a field as a frame and tub since then. i should add too i have the 7 all torn down and stripped because im painting and doing body work. so timing couldnt be better

tufcj

I'll let you slide if you bob the '8. :?: :mrgreen:

Mudrat

Sounds like another good deal is done!! Pics would be nice though :lo1l: Now about bobbing that thing :-| I've seen some good looki'n cut downs, but think about it hard before you do. It's hard to undo something like that an look right. Mudrat :t:

rollbar

Keep it (how can I say) ORIGINAL. :t: Bobbing a 8 is like having a 7 ON ROYD'S. IF u bOb it u might as well keep the 7. This is my opinion only & not nessessarly the opinion of others. :? 111!!! RollBar

milocj

That sounds like a good deal to me too, but I would also keep it original since there aren't a whole bunch of them around. How did you mount the NV4500 to your skidplate? I bought a 304/NV4500/Dana 300 to swap into my '86 CJ7 and the adaptor mount to the skidplate is pretty tall. I've got to drop the skitdplate about 1 1/2 inches and I think the engine is still angled slightly up in the back. I'm sure that this is probably something that AA sells because it is a nicely done rectangular tube that bolts into the bottom of the tranny and then sits on top of two tall rubber and metal pucks with BIG bolts that go through the skidplate. I'm hoping I can fab or buy something else that will let me gain a little more clearance under the skidplate.

Dusty

Thing was hacked bad and the floor had rusted. Too good to be true ussually is but I sure was hopeful and excited there all day yesterday. but some people dont know how to take care of things enough to make them worth keeping after awhile. Dont worry, its hard to get me to cut my sheet metal letalone bob an 8 i like to keep things looking original. this day and age that is a rarity. As to the NV4500, i'll keep you posted I Have alot of dabbling to do when i mount it. RJ brought up a good idea of just using 2 bolts and a solid piece of poly and then bolting that to a thin tubing cross member spanning from inside frame rail to rail. bolting to the side of the rail and then using a skid plate to span the belly with it broke and bolted to the outside of the frame rails. Should be able to tuck things higher this way???

W.T.Sumner

How do you put a 1960 vin # on a cj7??

Mudrat

W.T.Sumner wrote
How do you put a 1960 vin # on a cj7??

Pop rivets :?

Mudrat

milocj

I've got my NV4500 put together right now with the mounting bracket that came on it just so I can start driving it again within the next few weeks. I've got to pull the skidplate down one more time and I'll take a quick look at going to just the rubber puck, but I think next spring I'll start looking at trying to fab a new plate that will tuck things up a bit and maybe even a clocking ring if they are strong enough. I found a tubular crossmember with a bolt on steel plate guard at www.montanajeepframes.com but $350 seems a little steep even if it is as well made as it appears to be.

Dusty

W.T.Sumner wrote
How do you put a 1960 vin # on a cj7??

:wink: when you weld a cj5 to a CJ7

Dusty

Picked up a different tub and frame, paid a little too much for the damaged tub but with a hamer and a little time she will be straight again or atleast relatively. Gotta hammer out the cowl by the hood hinge mounts (front end impact push hinges into cowl a little) and the rear corners are mashed as ussual but those only need to be close to straight as body armor will hide most blems there. Overall the oportunity to change to a scrambler was just too appealing. 111!!! And there went the budget on this one.

Lifted79CJ7

So how is the project coming????? Inquiring minds want to know!!

Dusty

Now Jack i cant devuldge all my secrets.....

http://community.webshots.com/user/ddestruel

Im kinda stuck in a holding pattern a friend of mine who i trust alot more than myself with a wrench is tinkering.... finishing up my 401 and the NV4500. soon as they are done we'll be putting them in until then im just toying around with fuel lines and finding a fuel tank. Finished up installing the dash, gauges mounting the computer to the dash and fitting everthing.... No Defrost :smile: no room, its going to take serious creativity, custom dash guy took it upon himself to move the speedo towards the middle instead of leaving it alone didnt feel like arguing.

havent been too motivated lately. But i still really want to figure out a coil link suspension for the front. so that its in place then tinker with the rear down the road when pocket book is bigger :t:

Working on 5 on 5.5 front brake conversion with in ternal hubs this week and next 111!!! Getting closer rain seems to slow things down

Mudrat

Looking good!
I sorta went the other way ... I stretched an 8 so I could fit a CJ 7 top and still have the back open :-) Same color though :t:

Mudrat

Lifted79CJ7

Dusty, Check out last months Ultimate Adventure Part 2 Wrap up - they had a write up on a YJ with a double shackled/leaf spring/4 link suspension. I've seen this type of setup before on a CJ (only had it in the rear) and it works really well. None of the cushy bounce of coil springs, but none of the wander of leaf spring due to the links. Plus lots of flex due to double shackles (one shackle at each end of each leaf spring). Let me know and I can copy it and mail you a copy (sorry-no scanner!).

Jack

PS - Mudrat, how did you get the hard top to fit over the railings of the tub? Did you just trim the corners?

Mudrat

Lifted79CJ7 wrote
PS - Mudrat, how did you get the hard top to fit over the railings of the tub? Did you just trim the corners?

Yup - used to work on sailboats as a part time job 111!!!

Mud

Lifted79CJ7

Mud, a couple other questions - how did yo seal between the hard top and floor? Did you use a regular CJ8 divider that one would use with stubby CJ8 hardtop? Also, how did you reinforce those walls? I would imagine that the door slamming would warp that over time (after the first two years of production AMC had to reinforce that wall on the 7). Have any interior pics? Jack (Still toying with the idea of stretching my 7 to look like a bobbed 8 this spring)

Mudrat

Lifted79CJ7 wrote
Mud, a couple other questions - how did yo seal between the hard top and floor? Did you use a regular CJ8 divider that one would use with stubby CJ8 hardtop? Also, how did you reinforce those walls? I would imagine that the door slamming would warp that over time (after the first two years of production AMC had to reinforce that wall on the 7). Have any interior pics?
Jack
(Still toying with the idea of stretching my 7 to look like a bobbed 8 this spring)

Used the CJ8's back panel and grafted on the top section of a 7's corners and finished the the back panel with custom sheet metal from Jims body guy. We cut behind the 'B' pillar so I didn't do anything with the doors or door post.
If you rlooking to stretch yours you will need several things, first and formost is a big enough shop with a level floor, a pair of rails and 2 frame mounts for the front and back sections. And one hell of a sawsall! Then some channel or box iron the same size as your frame, a couple sheets of galvanized sheet metal (suggest 18 ga not the stock 16) a welder and some time. If you're not good with body work, a body guy that can cut , fit and smooth the body joints. The frame will be fairly well hidden, but needs to be strong.

Mudrat

eight

So, you got any pics of that with the top on? I've been thinkin of doin a simular thing. I want to stretch one, and make a crew cab out of it. Not sure what top I'd start with, probably CJ5, and then use CJ5 doors as the rears. I've also considered slicing it down the middle and widening it. Then it will receive a 6.5 chevy/hummer turbo diesel, a built 700R4, NP205, a skinny 14 bolt, narrowed D44HD front, and some 305s on truck style 16x8 wheels.

Mudrat

I have no idea where all my old pics are. I think I was lucky to find those (over inthe readers rides section) I had a lot more of my M38A1 in the sand pits (one was when I was burried up to the top of the tires), My FJ-40 that I rolled and bunches more (Germany, Netherlands and other 'neat places) :smile: Probably find them all when we move ... Mudrat