Lifted79CJ7
OK, so what do you call the freez plug looking thing in the back of the block that keeps the cam from coming through the back of the engine? How can you tell where to set it exactly? Will it depend on the cam that I use, or is it a standard depth?
Jack
fuzz401
were it goes in the back of the block there is a chamfer in that hole the edge of the plug should be at the edge of the chamfer
Lifted79CJ7
I would assume that I should replace this when I do my rebuild....does this part come in a Fel-Pro gasket kit, or is this gonna be an extra part that I need to order - and if so, what is the correct name of the part?
Jack (probably annoying you guys to death with questions by now!)
jeepsr4ever
when you get a engine kit it usually comes with freeze plugs, if its a master it always does. When you get your engine block work done (boiled, bored...ect) a good builser will install the freeze plugs and cam plug so you wont have to mess with them. I like the questions because it helps other members and lurkers so dont hesitate to ask, this site isnt just for garage engineers
fuzz401
no just peons like me ask any ques you have a dumb ques is better then none asked
jeepsr4ever
yeah and if you can ask a dumber question than any of mine you win the boobie prize
fuzz401
Lifted79CJ7
OK guys, so I have decided that I want to break the 400hp mark when I do my rebuild. Any suggestions? Think with my edlebrock performer cam and 9.5:1 or so pistons I might be able to pull it off? I am thinking floating pistons, oiling mods, and maybe some head work. The question is, what type of head work should I think about? 3 angle valve job? Polishing job? Think porting would be necessary?
Thanks guys!!
Jack
jeepsr4ever
I personally dont think porting is as effective as polishing for your application, you can hit that mark, i suggest 3angle valve job on the heads, this will allow a positive seat for some great revving! :) You can get there, i have some new items coming out to help you achieve 400+ and still keep that engine reliable
Lifted79CJ7
As for the porting, from what I understand from you guys, really wouldn't affect me unless I am going to be doing high revving (above 5K) and higher horsepower type stuff (over 500hp), am I correct on this assumption? As for the polishing, I was definitely thinking about having that done. 3 angle valve job? I can do that. So what all is involved with a 3 angle job, and will I need to order special valves, or have the vavles machined at the same time as the head, or do the valves just stay as they come out of the box?
As for the new items that you have floating around in that head of yours, can you give us any sneak peaks????? I promise I won't tell!! :wink:
OK, and last but not least, I know I have asked this a couple times, but I am still a little hazy on it...what all do I need to have done to my new timing chain cover and new oil pump gears and spring? I remember you talking about new gears for higher pressure, but I haven't seen much more on if you are selling these or not. Will the stock style ones hold up to my goal of an engine?
I do plan on doing the oil mods to the crank and adding in the oiling kit that I got from Perfromance AM Style, any other oiling mods I should think about?
And FINALLY, I am worried about distributor gear wear. How do you set these correctly for a long life. I read that you guys are against doing oiling mods to improve oil flow here, but it still seems to make sense to me. I saw a nice write up using a welder tip to shoot oil right on the contact area, but now I am not so sure after hearing everyones side on this board. Any suggestions?
Thanks for helping out so much with such a novice engine builder!
Jack
jeepsr4ever
Jack,
Where to start!
1. You can easily screw up a 3 angle on your heads if you do it yourself, I would let someone else do the worry-ing for you
2. Oil pump gears and a high pressure spring are what i sell right now in that area
3. We have discussed the dizzy gear oiling before, as far as my opinion goes it gets oiled fine when the oil passages are clear. Personally i think overoiling it is a bad idea, what is lacking in oil if you are over-oiling the dizzy gear?....the MAINS are.
4. I am making under drive aluminum pulley's for the AMC V8 soon and will increase hp substantially, a few other items i wont suggest yet but they are coming....soon
Lifted79CJ7
Cool, thanks!
1) As for the three angle valve job - I will definitely let the machine shop do that one. But will I need to order special valves, or will the stock style valves that I but need to be machined, or will they need to be left alone and just the head machined?
2) What type of work will I need to do to my oil pump gears and the TC cover to ensure long life? Both of these are new units in my engine.
3) Sounds good to me, I'll leave it stock.
4) Pulleys eh? You should make pulleys and brackets for AMC V8's that allow the use of a second AC Compressor so us off road folks can have comfy AC AND On Board Air. Just a suggestion! Can't wait to hear about the other products due to come out!!
Jack
fuzz401
i would go with a after market valve with single or double grove valves instead of the triple grove and new retainers for the springs
Lifted79CJ7
So what would be the pros and cons of single vs double vs triple grooved valves? What is the physical difference?
Jack
(I will be replacing the springs, valves, retainers, seals, etc in the heads, I want this engine to last a while)
Lifted79CJ7
UPDATE: OK, so I just got done pulling one of my heads and oh this poor little engine. I took some pics that I will post later tonight. Looks like at some point something metal wasknocking around the inside of one of my cylinders and majorly did some damage to one of the pistons. Also I saw what heads I have: According to a spec chart I have they are cast number 323 1475 which came on 360's in 1978, have 57.92 cc chamber, are Dog-Leg Bridged (whatever bridged means), and have a 2.025 intake and 1.680 exhaust. Anywho, I am making great progress since it is unusally warm out today, so back to work I go! I'll post pics later tonight.
Jack
Lifted79CJ7
OK, so here is a link to some pictures that I took lassst night in the driveway:
http://community.webshots.com/album/99527165jPYmrz
Looks like I have 3 cylinders with some damaged pistons. This thing is defintiely gonna need to be completely rebuilt. So what do you guys think about the heads? Think I can just do a polish job to the chamber or should I go get new heads from the junk yard?
Jack
fuzz401
double or single groove valve are what most builders use for motors that will see some power and beating they are to hold better ( keeper to retainer ) then the triple grove
bridged rockers are like ford style they have the u shaped pc with a alum. pc that goes against the rocker u tighten down the 5/16" bolt to 15 ft lbs and that is it
adjustable rockers have a screw in stud that the rockers and 1/2 ball go on then you can adjust your valves like an old chevy to preload your lifters
the pistons I would not be comcerend about if you are going to rebore the motor if you are going to reuse them you might want to get new ones for those holes
the heads can u post some pic of just the chamber that are marked up to get a better look at them :idea:
have you gotten to the crank yet ? and what do the bearings look like ?
Lifted79CJ7
Gotcha on the bridged rockers. Wish I could afford roller rockers, thats for sure!
As for the pistons, I am definitely gonna replace. I want to run a higher compression ratio (9.5:1 to 10:5:1) for some extra HP. As for the cylinder walls, they all seemed ok, no major scaring or knicks. They do have LOTS of wear though. You can see where they have an up/down wear pattern from the piston and rings over the years. I will try and snap some pics later this week. I can't gurantee anything good though, my camera is a $40 Wal-Mart jobbie. I haven't gotten to the crank yet either. I was hoping to today but I got hung up on removing the timing chain off the crank, so I moved on to some other projects (making the doors close, bolting the bumper on, trimming and putting the plastic Jeep logo back on with the new bumper). I am still trying to track down the knocking noise, so I am sure I am getting close. I think its something in the lower end like a rod bearing. :-|
Jack
Lifted79CJ7
OK, so I dropped the oil pan today and pulled the pistons out, along with the cam. I have some pictures here of the engine:
http://community.webshots.com/album/99527165jPYmrz
Take a gander and let me know what you think of the beraings, pitsons, cylinder walls, etc. Tomorrow I hope to have the crank out. I also found a good machine shop locally. They do a lot of porche racing stuff, but have done work on 401's before as well. I am gonna give them another call tomorrow and get some pricw quotes. Anywho, hope you kids enjoy the pics and let me know what you think!
Jack
fuzz401
cam bearing did not look to bad except were it got hit taking the cam out lol the grove looked like it was still in good shape
rod bearings were about gone with showing the copper on them
crank look good
piston skirts do not look that bad eather
